Ottawa Citizen

Bureaucrac­y undermines Montreal’s food trucks

- SYLVAIN CHARLEBOIS Dr. Sylvain Charlebois, professor, Food Distributi­on and Policy, Associate Dean, College of Management and Economics, University of Guelph

Foodies in Montreal got a taste of foie gras poutine and glutenfree sautéed gnocchi this summer served by food trucks for the first time since street food was outlawed in the city in 1947.

Like other cities, such as Ottawa and Toronto, Montreal is running a pilot program for the next two summers to evaluate whether Montrealer­s can stomach a drastic revolution in the city’s foodscape: the addition of the often lively and idiosyncra­tic food trucks.

While the pilot project clearly intends to showcase Montreal’s gastronomi­c excellence, some are questionin­g the socio-economic value of the pilot and the bureaucrat­ic immensity behind the whole approach.

On the surface, the project seems to be very successful. Not only are people are lining up and waiting for 20 minutes, but some trucks are also running out of supplies on occasion. There is even a convenient­ly designed website allowing consumers to know when and where their favourite trucks will be.

Similar to their counterpar­ts in other North American cities, foodies in Montreal are uniting and embracing the food-truck movement. But after two years of public consultati­ons, recommenda­tions to allow food trucks to roam Montreal streets are once again fraught with administra­tive constraint­s.

Food trucks are regulated by a city administra­tion-driven bureaucrac­y with a vast array of rules and regulation­s. Some trucks may cease operations even before the pilot ends, due to the nightmare of red tape. The licensing process is so lengthy and thorny that it is almost as if the city wants this initiative to fail. Montreal’s high taxes are also a challenge for many of these businesses.

This overbearin­g bureaucrac­y may have something to do with high prices, as well. One thing is for

Some trucks may cease operations even before the pilot ends, due to the nightmare of red tape. The licensing process is so lengthy and thorny that it is almost as if the city wants this initiative to fail.

certain: these food dispensers will not survive with the current price scheme. For example, the price of a somewhat sophistica­ted grilled cheese sandwich is $8, and a single small taco can be purchased for $6. Patrons are currently asked to spend a considerab­le amount of cash for what should be convenient­ly located, reasonably priced food. A family of four could easily pay up to $50 for an arguably unhealthy meal on their way to a show or movie.

These prices are prohibitiv­e for the common but affordable for the elitist foodies. For consumers with less means, this option doesn’t do much to address urban food security concerns faced by many in a city like Montreal. This is particular­ly pertinent considerin­g that downtown Montreal is the home of many itinerants.

Economical­ly, food trucks have been considered as democratic instrument­s to support capitalism at the core. This business model offers a more accessible path to business ownership for aspiring restaurate­urs who are often unable to find enough capital to finance a brick-and-mortar storefront. However, the program in Montreal is anything but open to the ambitious entreprene­ur. Granting licences to trucks who intend to only partner with well-establishe­d restaurant­s is a form of capitalist­ic discrimina­tion.

This licensing strategy was obviously instituted to serve a preexistin­g business environmen­t. The entire project’s underlying objective involves not increasing competitio­n for current restaurant­s. Understand­ably, restaurant­s don’t like competitio­n, but our economy needs it, and consumers want it for better variety and prices. Besides, a good restaurant serving great food to its patrons shouldn’t worry much if it sees a food truck parked in front of it. But under the current program, food trucks are not allowed within 60 metres of a food service establishm­ent. Nonsense.

In the end, Montreal’s program to offer better food to people on-thego has merit, but this is being overshadow­ed by the city’s tendency to make things much too bureaucrat­ically convoluted.

If other Canadian cities want to offer something different for their citizens, they should consider this example from la belle province. But, as it stands, Montreal’s business approach is certainly not desirable.

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