Beauty beyond the beach
Discovering the essence of Fiji on a rainy day
It’s not supposed to rain in paradise, but even in Fiji, those famous blue skies can sometimes be overcast and grey.
But in paradise, you don’t let a grey day hold you back.
We decided to try an excursion with Sigatoka River Safari, an outfitter that takes visitors down one of the country’s longest rivers for a rendezvous with people in rural villages. The trip allows foreigners to learn more about how ordinary Fijians live.
It was our second day on Viti Levu, the largest of the 320-plus islands that comprise this South Pacific country, and it was the second day of rain. Instead of sulking in our hotel room because we couldn’t laze on the beach, we took the Sigatoka journey.
The trip downriver was exciting as we sped along in a jetboat. The river followed a valley lined with cloud-shrouded mountains. Forest and farmland sped past us and river birds scattered as we noisily motored along the river. Every once in a while, we’d pass local people going about their daily lives. One was washing his horse in the shallows, another doing her laundry, others were tending their fields. All would wave as we passed and we’d wave back. Welcoming visitors with genuine hospitality seems to come naturally to Fijians.
After following the snaking curves of the river for about eight kilometres, the boat let us out and we trekked along for another kilometre or so until we came to the village. About 300 people live here in simple, one-storey houses mostly made of plastered brick. There is a Methodist church, a community hall and an open plaza for special events.
Our guide was a local woman who explained the traditions and the daily lives of the people who live here, surviving by growing crops like tobacco, papaya and banana, both for sale and subsistence. The visits by the tour company are also beneficial, as 10 per cent of the ticket sales go directly to the village.
Sigatoka River Safari spreads the wealth among a dozen or so river villages. The safari operates six days a week, and each day visits a different village. Then, every six months, the tour visits a different set of villages. Visitors can also leave cash gifts.
Much of the financing of this village’s church was provided by a wealthy Australian businessman who had made the same journey and was so touched by the people there and their stalled efforts to build the church that he donated the money needed to finish its construction.
As our group walked the muddy path into town, people would smile, wave and heartily greet us with “bula,” a word that literally means “life” and is imbued with much more meaning that a simple greeting. Fijians speak of “bula spirit” to describe their easygoing, welcoming nature.
The oldest person in our group was deemed our chief, and we were welcomed into an open room lined with straw mats. On one side was the chief and the elders of the village. On the other side were the men in our group, behind us were the women, all of whom were now wearing sarongs to cover their bare knees, a nod to Fijian tradition.
Our chief presented a bundle of kava root to the village’s chief as a token of appreciation. Prayers and speeches were made and we were welcomed us as guests and offered kava to drink. Also known as grog, the drink has a relaxing and anesthetizing affect. Kava is a bit like drinking earthflavoured novocaine juice and is a vital part of Fijian culture.
Our chief was offered a shallow cup made from a coconut shell that was filled with kava. The protocol for the recipient was to clap his hands, shout bula and drain the cup. The response from the village chief and elders was to shout bula back and clap three times. The village chief took his drink and we clapped our response, then a friend of our chief and a friend of theirs drank their share and we were officially friends.
After our kava ceremony, we were then welcomed into the community hall for a meal. Singers joined musicians with guitars and ukuleles, to sing us songs of greeting.
We all sat cross-legged on the floor to feast on a meal prepared by women in the village. It was simple, but delicious: chicken, chow mein, cassava, roti and Indian flat breads along with juices and fresh fruit. The musicians serenaded us with their happy tunes as we ate.
Afterwards, more kava was consumed, which, of course, led to dancing.
Men from the village would tap on the shoulders of the visiting women they wanted to dance with and village women would do the same with the men. Children from visiting families and those from the village also hopped and clapped along. The writer was a guest of Tourism Fiji and Fiji Airways, neither of which reviewed nor approved this article before publication.