Ottawa Citizen

David Lebovitz gives readers a top-notch take on Parisian food and life, writes Peter Hum.

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The book: My Paris Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, $41, 346 pages) by David Lebovitz, an American expat who cooked at Chez Panisse for 14 years before moving to Paris in 2004. He blogs at davidlebov­itz.com, and some of his previous books have focused on desserts. The pitch: An erudite and personal collection of recipes that’s anecdote-rich and bolstered with lengthy, personal and often droll introducti­ons. The recipes: More than 100 of them, savoury and sweet alike, ranging from classics such as coq au vin, cassoulet, croque monsieur to “counterfei­t” duck confit (so named because it cooks the snug-in-a-baking-dish thighs in their own fat), lambshank tagine, duck fat cookies and chocolate terrine with fresh ginger crème anglaise. The look: While Lebovitz’s words are the selling point, there are lovely photos, some full-page and some inset, for most recipes. The bonuses: Side notes on everything from brands of Dijon mustard to the best way to seed a pomegranat­e to the French fondness for bickering. The test: Chicken Lady Chicken involved removing the bird’s backbone, marinating it for a day, cooking it on the stove (pressed down under bricks) and then finishing it in the oven. It was an easy family-pleaser, if a little too salty. Next time, no soy in the marinade. This book is for: Cooks who like quality recipes with personalit­y and plenty of context, along with a vicarious visit to the City of Light.

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