David Lebovitz gives readers a top-notch take on Parisian food and life, writes Peter Hum.
The book: My Paris Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, $41, 346 pages) by David Lebovitz, an American expat who cooked at Chez Panisse for 14 years before moving to Paris in 2004. He blogs at davidlebovitz.com, and some of his previous books have focused on desserts. The pitch: An erudite and personal collection of recipes that’s anecdote-rich and bolstered with lengthy, personal and often droll introductions. The recipes: More than 100 of them, savoury and sweet alike, ranging from classics such as coq au vin, cassoulet, croque monsieur to “counterfeit” duck confit (so named because it cooks the snug-in-a-baking-dish thighs in their own fat), lambshank tagine, duck fat cookies and chocolate terrine with fresh ginger crème anglaise. The look: While Lebovitz’s words are the selling point, there are lovely photos, some full-page and some inset, for most recipes. The bonuses: Side notes on everything from brands of Dijon mustard to the best way to seed a pomegranate to the French fondness for bickering. The test: Chicken Lady Chicken involved removing the bird’s backbone, marinating it for a day, cooking it on the stove (pressed down under bricks) and then finishing it in the oven. It was an easy family-pleaser, if a little too salty. Next time, no soy in the marinade. This book is for: Cooks who like quality recipes with personality and plenty of context, along with a vicarious visit to the City of Light.