Thinking outside of the box when buying regional wines

I was tasting through a series of Malbecs with an Argentine winemaker last week, and he mentioned that he was starting to give more attention to Cabernet Sauvignon. Not that Malbec isn’t great, but his company wanted to diversify the wines they offered. I was happy to hear this, because on my several trips to Argentina, I’ve been more impressed, overall, by the Cabernets than the Malbecs. There are many fine Argentine Malbecs, of course, but some of the Cabernets edged out even the best Malbecs.

The next bit of the conversation was about the difficulty of getting consumers to accept a Cabernet Sauvignon from Argentina, when the country is so tightly associated with Malbec. When people think Cabernet, they’re more likely to think of California, Chile or perhaps Australia.

It’s one of the downsides of establishing a brand. Australia faced it with Shiraz, New Zealand with Sauvignon blanc and Germany with Riesling. It wasn’t, or isn’t, so easy to convince consumers that they should buy an Australian Riesling, a New Zealand Merlot or a German Pinot Noir.

Perhaps the lucky wine-producing countries are the ones that aren’t linked to an established and recognizable grape variety. There’s a lot of Sangiovese in Italy, but most of it is disguised by regional names (like Chianti), and that’s also the case with France and Spain.

And maybe South Africa was lucky that pinotage failed to make much headway on international markets, so it has no signature grape globally (except, perhaps, Chenin Blanc); consumers are quite happy to pick up a South African Shiraz, Cabernet, Chardonnay or Sauvignon blanc.

The reality is, of course, that most wine-producing countries draw on a range of varieties, and that specific regions are associated with grape varieties. Most New Zealand Sauvignon blanc comes from Marlborough, and although an awful lot of Pinot Noir grows there, too, it’s Central Otago that’s better known for the grape. Meanwhile, the East Coast/Hawkes Bay region produces fine Merlots.

It’s for this reason that so many national wine-marketing orga- Sauvion ‘Carte d’Or’ Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2012 Muscadet is France’s classic wine for white fish and seafood. From the Atlantic end of the Loire Valley, this example brings vibrant and quite complex fruit flavours that are consistent right through, supported by crisp, clean acidity. 12 per cent alcohol; $13.95 (143016)

Catena Malbec 2012 This is a popular Mendoza malbec for good reason. It delivers plenty of rich and complex flavour but is very well balanced and has easy-going tannins. It’s a no-brainer for well-seasoned grilled and roasted red meat dishes.13.5 per cent alcohol; $19.95 (478727, Vintages Essential)

Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc 2011 From California, this is a lovely blend of sauvignon blanc and a little Semillon. It has bright but serious flavours that are layered and persistent, and a broad seam of fresh acidity. It’s great with grilled white fish and seafood. 14.5 per cent alcohol; $23.95, but $20.95 until Oct. 12 (221887 Vintages)

Sartori Valpolicella Classico 2012 From Italy’s northeastern Veneto region, this is a well-made, drinkable wine at a very good price. Look for intense flavours that are complex and well structured, paired with a good dose of food-friendly acidity. Drink it with hearty pastas and red meats. 12.5 per cent alcohol; $13.95 (378109) nizations have been stressing “regionality.”

It’s something to bear in mind when you’re shopping for wine. I have to say I sometimes look twice when I see a region-variety pairing that looks strange, like an Italian Pinot Noir or a New Zealand Sangiovese.

But there’s been a real globalizing effect in viticulture in the last decade or two, and it’s now important to think well beyond the familiar.