Quality, value and variety on the rise at LCBO

Canada, U.S., Chile and Argentina are making reds with high residual sugar

I’ve just finished my annual month-long tasting of nearly all the wines in the LCBO list and the Vintages Essentials collection, and it has given me a window into the state of the world’s affordable wines.

First off, though, the LCBO is offering us much better quality. In the eight years I’ve been doing this tasting (to select the 500 best-value wines), both quality and value have improved steadily and there’s more diversity in grape varieties and sources. Recently, for example, the LCBO has added a number of wines from Washington and Oregon.

One trend we’re seeing is toward richer and sometimes sweeter reds. Although sweet reds have long been popular in parts of southeast Europe, they’ve been rare in North America. But in the past two or three years, a number of Canadian, U.S., Chilean, and Argentine producers have been making reds with higher residual sugar. They’re often dismissed by wine critics, but they have to be taken as a serious style. It’s all about balance, and as long as the sweetness fits with the fruit and acid, they work.

There are also more red wines made from dried grapes, or from refermentation on the skins of wines made from dried grapes Willm Réserve Gewürztraminer 2013: A rich, more-thanoff-dry style of Gewürztraminer from Alsace that delivers luscious and intense flavours, along with a good burst of well-balanced acidity. This is an excellent choice for many spicy dishes, like pad Thai and mild curries. 13 per cent alcohol; $15.95 (269852) Angels Gate Pinot Gris 2013: This luscious Pinot Gris from Niagara’s Beamsville Bench subregion delivers lovely flavours right through the palate. They’re welldefined and nuanced, and supported by clean acidity that makes the texture almost juicy. 14.5 per cent alcohol; $14.95 (3331215) (called appassimento and ripasso, in Italian). There are more and more of these wines in the LCBO, not only from Italy (where these are common winemaking Château Pipeau 2011: This Saint-Emilion Grand Cru is 90 per cent Merlot and five per cent each Cabernets sauvignon and franc. Look for sculpted fruit that shows focus and definition, fine fruit-acid balance, and well-calibrated supporting acidity. 13 per cent alcohol; $36.85 (202018) Kir-Yianni Paranga 2012: From Macedonia this blend of the Greek xinomavro variety with Merlot and Syrah makes for a full-flavoured red with good complexity and consistency. The acidity is well balanced and the tannins are drying and have a little grip. 13.5 per cent alcohol; $14.30 (392175) techniques), but from Australia, Ontario and elsewhere. In Ontario, using these methods can produce the richer red wines that the cool climate doesn’t allow.

Then there are the increasingly popular rosé wines. The year-round selection in the LCBO is smaller than I would like, but a seasonal surge starts about now. Maybe rosés aren’t as popular in Ontario as elsewhere, and there’s very limited demand in the frigid months (although I find it very satisfying to drink a bright rosé when it’s -40 C outside). In France, rosé accounts for one-third of all wine consumed.

If rosé has escaped from the stereotypes as a fruity, cheerful wine for women to drink in summer, sparkling wines have escaped from the celebration ghetto. There’s no reason not to drink fizz all year round and on a daily basis. If you don’t finish a bottle, put a proper cap on it (a couple of dollars at a wine accessories store) and bubbles will last well for two or three days.

The LCBO has an improving selection of sparkling wines. There are champagnes, proseccos, and cavas, of course, but there’s a better range from Ontario and also the regional “crémant” sparkling wines from regions of France such as Burgundy, Limoux and the Loire.