SAN DIEGO HAS LOTS OF SUN
Any time’s a good time to visit this city
WHAT’S NEW
A nine-storey public library and its signature dome opened in downtown San Diego in 2013. It is an architectural gem with the glass-and-steel building flowing seamlessly between indoor and outdoor spaces. A three-storey reading room with giant windows gives a sweeping view of Coronado Bridge spanning across the bay.
The library and nearby Petco Park baseball stadium have revived the downtown neighbourhood, bringing in shops and cafés. Among them, Comun Kitchen & Tavern features Mexican food with a modern twist, like smoked ahi tuna and chicharron — or pork skin — with apples, pea and mint tostadas.
Another new attraction on the nearby waterfront is an open-air fish market held on a pier in Seaport Village every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Get there early to buy the catch of the day — like yellowfin tuna and sea urchins — straight from the fishermen. Even if you don’t buy, it’s worth checking out to see the industry that once earned San Diego the title “Tuna Capital of the World.”
And it’s a bit of a drive, albeit a gorgeous one, up the coast along Highway 101 to Encinitas, where the hometown of pro skateboarder Tony Hawk inaugurated the motherlode of skate parks this year. The Encinitas Skate Plaza shows how far the sport has come from its rebel beginnings in the hulls of drained, backyard swimming pools. The Tony Hawk Foundation helped with the design of the 13,000-square-feet (1,200-square-metre) skate park, where world-class skateboarders from ages eight to 48 do their flips and turns.
CLASSIC ATTRACTIONS
If Andy Griffith’s Mayberry had a beach twin, it would be Coronado. The bike-friendly peninsula that feels like a postcard from the 1950s is anchored by the iconic Hotel Del Coronado, which was featured in Marilyn Monroe’s 1958 film Some Like It Hot. Built in 1888, the red-roofed hotel is the last of California’s Victorian seaside resorts. It looks out onto 1.5 miles (2.4 kilometres) of pristine coast with a beach that sparkles with the mineral mica.
Another bucket-list attraction is Balboa Park. The 1,200-acre (485-hectare) city park rivals New York’s Central Park and is home to yet another bucket-list item — the San Diego Zoo. The park is celebrating its 100th anniversary, marking when its cluster of Spanish Renaissance-style buildings were erected in 1915 for a world fair to commemorate the opening of the Panama Canal. Museums are hosting concerts and special events throughout 2015, including a car symphony played by professional musicians on automobile parts. Check celebratebalboapark.org.
San Diego’s coast boasts worldclass surfing but also decent waves for the novice. There are a slew of surf schools. Best bet is to look online or head to neighbourhoods such as Mission Beach or Pacific Beach. Or grab a local craft beer and nachos at the WaveHouse on Mission Beach that hosts competitions of surfers flipping in the air off its machine-churned pool waves, with a view of the real thing in the Pacific.
TIPS
Unless you’ve got a lot of time and patience, you’ll definitely need a car to navigate the sprawling city, the eighth-largest in the U.S. Parking downtown means paying at either a meter or parking garage, but in most other parts of the city, street parking is free.
Al fresco dining is a must-do in this city. For a cheap breakfast or lunch visit a farmers market. There are several daily. (sdfarmbureau.org/BuyLocal/FarmersMarkets.php#markets)
Locals grab a bundle of wood at the grocery stores and roast hotdogs at one of the permanent fire pits set up along San Diego’s bays. The pits and their locations actually get reviews on Yelp. Another popular, evening picnic spot from spring through fall is at the Velodrome in Balboa Park, where you can watch cyclists spin around the track while DJs often spin their own tracks. (sdvelodrome.com/racing/)
HANGING OUT
San Diego’s Little Italy section is a prime spot for enjoying a good espresso and people watching.
The hilly, picturesque downtown neighbourhood was where Italian fishermen and boat builders lived in the 19th century through the 1970s when San Diego was the hub of the tuna industry.
Today, the area is a hip, bustling mecca of shops, art galleries and cafés.
On Saturdays, the neighbourhood has one of the city’s best farmers markets, known by its Italian name “mercato.” And on any given weekend, there seems to be some kind of festival, most Italian-themed, from chalk art contests to bocce ball tournaments.