MORE THAN JUST A WINTER SPORTS RESORT
Saint-Sauveur offers a lot for visitors in the off-season
Q What did you do?
AI explored Saint-Sauveur, learning a little about its history and a lot about the boutiques and art along its downtown, fragrant with ivory silk Japanese lilacs. Saint-Sauveur is best known as a ski resort — it co-hosted the continent’s first international ski competition — but is a true year-round destination.
Q Where should one start?
APerhaps at the Laurentian Ski Museum (30 rue Filion; Wednesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.). Artifacts include a sled and snowshoes from cross-country pioneer Herman (Jackrabbit) Johannsen and skis worn by Lucile Wheeler, the first North American to win an Olympic medal in an alpine event. One exhibit honours twins Rhona and Rhoda Wurtele. Born in 1922, they still ski. Rhoda even carried the torch in the run-up to the 2010 Vancouver Olympics; it’s on display.
Q You mentioned something about art.
AThanks for paying attention. For a town of 10,000, there’s a passel of galleries. The oldest, Galerie Michel Bigué (315 rue Principale), is also the most impressive, with works by such masters as A.Y. Jackson and Henri Masson, and contemporary Quebeckers. At Galerie Josette Tilmant (400 Principale), we met Roger Richard, artistin-residence since 1989. Galerie Robert Leclerc (31 de la Gare) sells nothing but the owner’s own vibrant palette-knife oils. My favourite work was by Pauline Paquin, a Sainte-Adele artist who paints nostalgic scenes of childhood and just opened a gallery (32 de la Gare).
Q You said Saint-Sauveur has shopping,
too.
AFolks trek there for outlet malls, but instead my wife and I contributed to the downtown economy. You’ll find a potpourri of merchandise: chandeliers crafted from maple burls at Vie de Chalet (280 Principale), stunning decorative duck decoys at Boutique Bonnetière (300 Principale), upscale Italian pewter at Aux Beaux Lauriers (303 Principale). Clothiers include La Folia (5 avenue de la Gare), which sells fair-trade Thai fisherman’s trousers and cotton dresses; Espace Purna (36 de la Gare), which features the funky styles of local designer Anne Larochelle; and Headrush (357 Principale), specializing in biker apparel.
Some stores are hard to categorize. Bonnie “D” (261 Principale) sells nothing but candy and dog accessories, while Bethanie (319 Principale) seems to be a dress shop except for the Tiffany-style lamps and oversized piggy banks in the back. But the foodie in us knew exactly what was what among food shops.
Q What food shops are there?
APlace du Patrimoine (7 ave. de l’Église) hosts several. You can buy fresh seafood, including Matane shrimp and maple-smoked salmon, at Le Fumoir des Lacs; organic mixes for soups, dips and breakfast bars at Le Vrac St-Sau; and breads and croissants from Boulangerie Pagé. Next door is Brûlerie des Monts (197 Principale), which roasts coffee on site.
But it was Francine Gendron’s warm welcome at Balsamique Olives et Cie (186 Principale) that will have us returning. She let us sample from her 50 types of balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Among the highlights: pomegranate-quince balsamic and Oro Bailen Picual, said to be one of the world’s top 10 olive oils. Boutique Bethanie appears to be a dress shop, but a stroll to the back reveals merchandise such as Tiffany-style lamps.
Q Speaking of food, where did you eat?
ASaint-Sauveur boasts more than 100 eateries, so there’s something for everybody. We lunched at Maestro (339 Principale), a trendy resto-bar that Bono, the rock star, visited last month. Its beef and salmon tartares were delicious. We had dinner at 40° Northh (235 Principale; and yes, there are two h’s). It’s a superb steak house, with an extensive wine list — and prices to match. It seems like a lot to pack into one day. I confess: we stayed overnight. There’s everything from the four-star Manoir Saint-Sauveur to some downtown B&Bs. We opted for Le Versailles, a Quality Inn at a quiet end of rue Principale.
Q
Why go now?
ABecause the town’s arts festival, running July 30 to Aug. 8, is a must for serious dance and music lovers (visit fass.ca for details). Programmed by Guillaume Côté, principal dancer of the National Ballet of Canada, it features a variety of domestic and international acts. Some perform free on an outdoor stage to be named for legendary Canadian singers Kate and Anna McGarrigle, who grew up there. Kate’s son, Rufus Wainwright, is a featured performer. Kate is buried in the town cemetery, which we visited before heading home.
Q
How do you get there?
AThe two-hour drive from Ottawa takes you east on Quebec Autoroute 50, north on Autoroute 15 and east on Highway 364. For information, visit valleesaintsauveur.com.