WE’RE ALL EARS
Four ways to grill fresh sweet corn
What I’ve learned about cooking corn after much trial and error: soaking corn in water before putting it over a fire is never a bad idea. The kernels come out plumper and juicier.
When wrapped in aluminum foil, a soaked ear of grilled corn tastes practically irrigated, though kernels can be slightly starchy rather than sweet.
Grilling corn naked over a fire — no husk, no foil — can cause kernels to blacken. By turning it every two minutes, the corn tans deeply and more evenly, for a wonderful grill flavour.
Grill a little first before smoking. The evocative smokiness works even better in familiar side dishes, including homemade creamed corn — it’s fabulous.
Cooking in the husk is my favourite technique. It can be done using any method, but cooking right on the embers is best.
Oak and apple woods work especially well because they are mild, but other hardwoods, such as pecan and cherry, are fine.
Servings: 4 Make ahead: For each of these four grilling methods, first soak the ears in water for 15 to 30 minutes.
4 ears husk-on sweet corn
To grill corn naked: Discard the husks and silk; soak ears for 15 to 30 minutes.
Prepare grill for direct heat. If using gas grill, preheat to medium-high (450 F/230 C). If using charcoal grill, light charcoal or wood briquettes; when briquettes are ready, distribute under cooking area for direct heat. For medium-hot fire, you should be able to hold your hand about 6 inches (15 cm) above coals for 5 seconds. Ready spray water bottle for taming flames. Lightly coat the grill rack with oil and place on grill.
Place corn on grate. Cook uncovered, giving quarter-turn every 2 minutes for total of 8 minutes. Remove once kernels begin to blacken in spots.
To grill corn husk-on: Pull back husk and discard silk, keep husk largely intact. Pull husks back over ears and secure each at top with a length of aluminum foil. Soak in water for 15 to 30 minutes.
Prepare charcoal grill for direct heat. (This method not suitable for gas grill.) Light charcoal or wood briquettes; when briquettes are ready, distribute evenly. For a medium-hot fire, you should be able to hold your hand 6 inches (15 cm) above coals for 5 seconds. Ready spray water bottle for taming flames.
Place husk-covered corn directly on embers. Use long-handled tongs to give quarter-turn every 2 minutes, for total 8 minutes. Once they’re just cool enough to handle, discard the husks.
To smoke the corn: Have ready 1/2 cup (125 mL) of hardwood chips; no need to soak them.
Discard husks and silk; soak ears for 15 to 30 minutes. (You may also leave husks on, which imparts a less smoky but cornier flavour. Pull back husks and discard silks, keep husks largely intact. Pull husks back over corn and secure at top with length of foil before soaking the ears.)
Prepare grill for direct and indirect heat. If using gas grill, turn heat to high. Put chips in smoker box or foil packet poked with fork holes to release smoke; set it between grate and briquettes, close to flame.
When you see smoke, reduce heat to medium-high (450 F/230 C degrees). Turn off burners on one side.
If using charcoal grill, light charcoal or briquettes; when briquettes are ready, distribute them on one side of grill. For a medium-hot fire, you should be able to hold your hand 6 inches (15 cm) above the coals for 5 seconds. Scatter (unsoaked) wood chips over coals. Ready spray water bottle for taming flames. Close lid to reduce flames from wood chips.
After 3 minutes, place corn on hot side of grill. Cook uncovered for 4 minutes, giving ears quarter-turn every so often to get light browning. Use long-handled tongs to move corn to indirectheat side of grill. Close lid and top vents; let corn smoke for 2 minutes.
To grill foil-wrapped corn: Discard husks and silk; soak ears for 15 to 30 minutes.
Prepare a grill for direct heat. If using gas grill, preheat to medium-high (450 F/ 230 C). If using charcoal grill, light charcoal or wood briquettes; when briquettes are ready, distribute them under cooking area for direct heat. For medium-hot fire, you should be able to hold your hand about 6 inches (15 cm) above coals for 5 seconds. Ready spray water bottle for taming flames. Lightly coat grill rack with oil and place it on grill.
Wrap each ear in foil. Place on grill. Cook ears for 8 to 10 minutes, turning frequently. You can tell corn’s done by pulling back foil a little; kernels will be plump and will look almost steamed or boiled. (If you’re not sure corn is done, it can go back on grill for total of 15 minutes.) Once cobs are cool enough to handle, discard foil.