FIVE OF THE BEST SOUTHERN-STYLE BBQ JOINTS
These regional spots do barbecue right
FATBOYS SOUTHERN SMOKEHOUSE, O T TAWA
“We give equal time to the saints and the sinners,” quips Sherri Harding as she and her band, Soul Revival, switch between secular and gospel music each Sunday at this ByWard Market eatery. At either of two sittings, scarf down a range of barbecued goodies from an all-you-can-eat buffet laid out atop Jack Daniels whiskey barrels. It’s a good way to try middle-of-the-road southern fare: hickory-smoked dry-rub ribs (three sauces at the table will slop ’em up), fried chicken, biscuits and gravy, smoked bacon mac and cheese, pulled pork hash browns and the like. The rest of the week, the menu is à la carte.
Tip: At Sunday brunch, seniors pay $5 if they’re accompanied by someone at the full price of $21.99.
In the neighbourhood: You’ve clogged your arteries. Why not prepare for next week’s inevitable cleanse with fresh produce from nearby ByWard Market street vendors?
When: Sunday brunch settings are at 11 a.m. and 1 p.m.; reservations are advisable. Open seven days, from lunch to 10 p.m., later on weekends.
Directions: Located at 34 Murray St., just east of Sussex Drive.
Contact: (613) 695-5599; fatboys.ca
D&S SOUTHERN COMFORT BBQ, CARLSBAD SPRINGS
My friendly server at this surprisingly large restaurant off the beaten track says the brisket and pulled pork are so popular that a combination platter of the two is their biggest seller. The brisket is tangy, thanks to a Carolina-style vinegar barbecue sauce. The ribs, done St. Louis style, are meaty and firmer than many. The kitchen will slather on your choice of three sauces, from sweet to spicy; the medium sauce is based on apple cider vinegar. Even dessert is smoked: hickory smoked chocolate cheesecake, anyone? Family friendly is the watchword of this sparkling clean eatery, with a kid’s menu and photos of young patrons and their drawings along one hallway. Their parents – and others – can enjoy local beverages: Beau’s and Cassel beer or wine from Navan’s Perrault Winery.
In the neighbourhood: Walk off those pounds on the 1.5-kilometre boardwalk at Mer Bleue Conservation Area, a bog so important it’s protected by an international treaty.
Directions: Take Highway 417 east to Exit 104, south on Anderson Road, left onto County Road 14 (Leitrim Road, which merges into Russell Road). Head to 6501 Russell Rd. Driving time: under 30 minutes.
Contact: (613) 822-8652; dsbbq.ca
RESTAURANT LE RIO, SAINT-SAUVEUR, QUE.
The boast “best BBQ ribs in the Laurentians” isn’t hype. Le Rio’s baby back ribs are meaty but lean; tender, not mushy; hickory smoked, but with a touch of sweet molasses. Both full- and half-rack orders come with a starter salad and double-fried fries. Other menu items include duck leg and butterfly shrimp, even a kiddie-sized rack of ribs. Housed in an 1855 home with rustic ceiling beams and lace curtains, Le Rio can be crowded on weekends. Fortunately, there’s a terrace.
Tip: You can buy Le Rio’s sauce, in original or spicy versions, for $6 a pint.
In the neighbourhood: The Mont Saint-Sauveur ski area hosts an aquatic park. Its tubing slide runs for 183 metres.
When: On Monday through Thursday, opens at 3 p.m.; Friday through Sunday, 2 p.m. Closes about 10 p.m. in summer, and 9 p.m. off-season.
Directions: From Gatineau, head east on Autoroute 50. At Lachute, turn north on Highway 329. At Morin Heights, turn right onto Highway 364. Nearly seven kilometres later, turn left onto rue Principale in Saint-Sauveur. The restaurant is at 352 rue Principale. Driving time: two hours.
Contact: (450) 240-0864; riorestaurant.ca
MUDDY’S PIT BBQ, KEENE, ONT.
Neil Lorenzen made his name with Peterborough’s popular Hot Belly Mama’s. In 2010, he opened Muddy’s; it too is a success. Housed in a former fruit stand, it screams Deep South, with three smokers out back (everything’s cooked over hardwood maple) and pick-ups and bikes out front. Food, including sides, is sold by weight. Ribs are meaty but not saucy (you can pour on optional sauces in Kansas City and Carolina styles). Barbecued bologna and brisket are available. Church Key and Smithworks provide the local draft beer.
Tip: Regional musicians perform Sundays from 3 to 6 p.m.
In the neighbourhood: Take a floatplane tour, swim, go horseback riding or enjoy the spa at Elmhirst’s Resort, seven kilometres away.
When: Until Labour Day, Tuesday to Sunday at 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Then, Wednesday to Sunday from 11 a.m. to 8 or 9 p.m. Closed January through March.
Directions: Head west on Highways 417 and 7. About 200 kilometres beyond Carleton Place, turn left onto County Road 38. Six kilometres later, turn right at the flashing light. Watch for the building on your left at 3247 County Road 2. Driving time: three hours.
Contact: (705) 295-1255
DINOSAUR BAR-B-QUE, SYRACUSE, N.Y.
Dinosaur is a chain across New York State, but Syracuse is where it all began. It’s been voted the best barbecue in America by Good Morning America and been featured on the Food Network. All that’s gotta be worth something. The joint is biker-bar shabby, with rude signs and sassy servers, but the kitchen turns out first-rate pulled pork, brisket, apple brined chicken and shrimp boil. Sides include turkey neck collard greens. The bar stocks 21 draft beers.
Tip: If you’re gluten intolerant or have allergies, ask for special menus.
In the neighbourhood: Drop into Destiny USA, sixth largest shopping centre in the U.S., with outlet stores for such brands as L’Occitane and Armani.
When: Open seven days a week, from lunch until anywhere around 10 p.m. Sunday to 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday.
Directions: Take Highways 416 south and 401 west to the Thousand Islands Bridge. Cross the U.S. border (don’t forget passports); proceed on Interstate 81 to Exit 19. Take Clinton Street to Willow Street; turn right. Dinosaur is one block ahead at 246 W. Willow St. Driving time: just over three hours.
Contact: (315) 476-4937; dinosaurbarbque.com