ARENA, ART AND A GIANT MALL
Edmonton is a city on an upward arc, with a great food scene and a new hockey arena under construction that’s transforming a large part of downtown. Jim Byers takes a look at some great things to do in Alberta’s capital.
1 The ICE District
The area around the Edmonton Oilers’ new NHL arena, Rogers Place, is being slowly transformed into a hotbed of new condos, shops and great pubs. I’m partial to the Mercer Tavern, which has funky furnishings, nice food and a great atmosphere. (mercertavern.com). Rostizado is a roast chicken and meat spot owned by the guys who run nearby Tres Carnales, one of the best Mexican restaurants in Canada (rostizado.com). The Oilers’ new arena is slated to open this fall, which probably will spark further improvements to the neighbourhood.
2 Cultural capital
The Art Gallery of Alberta is a striking building on the edge of the city’s main square — a swirling glass structure that feels a bit like a Frank Gehry design. I was struck by the interior light and by a series of funky exhibits when I was there. You’ll find both contemporary — and sometimes pretty wild — art by famous international and Canadian artists, as well as historical works displayed in a series of rotating exhibitions. (youraga.ca) Other offerings include TELUS World of Science and the Alberta Aviation Museum.
3 West Edmonton Mall
It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but there’s no denying the impact the West Edmonton Mall has had on this city. I was there in winter once when it was, shall we say, a bit frosty. I spent a couple hours swimming in the world’s largest indoor wave pool and sliding down enormously fun waterslides without a care for what Mother Nature was up to outside. They say the mall is equivalent to 48 city blocks and holds the record for world’s largest indoor amusement park. They also have shopping; more than 800 stores and services that range from Pottery Barn to Pantorama, as well as Quiksilver, Scotch & Soda and the Apple Store. You likely won’t have the place to yourself, however; they get upwards of 30 million visitors a year (wem.ca).
4 Old Strathcona
If the ICE District is the new kid on the new block, Old Strathcona is Edmonton’s more reliable older brother; a fun mix of cool bars and shops centred along Whyte Avenue, with tons of street life, in part due to its proximity to the University of Alberta. The Commercial Hotel and Blues on Whyte has plenty of atmosphere and is one of the best blues venues in Canada. Ampersand 27 is a relatively new restaurant that’s garnering great reviews, while Chicken Scratch is a fun shop selling unusual cards and gifts. There’s an indoor farmers’ market every Saturday from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., with more than 130 vendors (oldstrathcona.ca).
5 Rollin’ on the river
The North Saskatchewan River slices through the middle of the city, just south of downtown. I had a great time riding a rental bike through the valley and over the Cloverdale Pedestrian bridge a couple years back. The gentle summer waters of the river make it a great spot for canoeing or kayaking. The River Valley Adventure Co. (rivervalleyadventure.com) does Segway tours. You can also rent a bike or even a soccer ball. Admire the view on an old-fashioned trolley car from the High Level Bridge (edmonton-radial-railway.ab.ca/ highlevelbridge). The Edmonton Queen offers boat tours on the river (discoveredmonton.com/ Edmonton/ToursActivities/ BoatTours).