DRIVING GLENGARRY TOWNSHIP
Writer Katharine Fletcher toured Glengarry Township with local resident, artist and friend Ronna Mogelon. Here is their ‘insider’s Big Reveal’ featuring her favourite tips on what to see and do in Glengarry Township.
1. THE QUIRKY CARROT
1 Main St. S., Alexandria (thequirkycarrot.ca) “I serve elevated, basic food like salads, soups and sandwiches that are seasonally focused, so the menu is governed by what’s locally available,” explains owner-operator Julia Graham.
Here at the “QC” the inclusive menu includes meat dishes plus vegetarian, vegan and glutenfree meals. Graham will quickly convince you — if convincing you actually need — that such dietary needs are by no means “constraints.”
Ordering a Quirky Kale Salad, I soon understood what she meant by “elevated.” The grated beets, carrots, hemp hearts and pumpkin-seed salad with tahini dressing was sublime, where not only fresh tastes but also brilliant colours transport the senses.
The Quirky Carrot isn’t large. So, if you’re pressed for time there’s takeout, and parks nearby.
Anything more? Yes. There are cooking classes on Thursday evenings. With a maximum of 10 participants, this is an opportunity to learn intriguing techniques with expert chefs featuring local produce. Tip: Why not get a gang together and go?
Meanwhile, across the street, Les papiers Left & Write Paperie at 8 Main North, is a tiny stationery boutique. Owner-artist Anick Bauer is left-handed — and loves calligraphy — hence the name. Pop in to see her whimsical stationery plus pillows and tea towels featuring her own silkscreened designs. Plus, she’s now offering calligraphy workshops — at the Quirky Carrot (October 23 from 1-4).
2. GLENGARRY CHOCOLATE FACTORY
152 Main Street, Alexandria (facebook.com/ glengarry chocolatefactory/) A Taste of France, anyone? Come here for excellent coffee — but, “When in Rome...” So here, Ronna and I ordered chocolate drinks. “But, madame, it isn’t sweet,” cautioned co-owner JeanFrançois Daudelin. Assuring him that’s wonderful, I ordered a cold, Ronna a hot chocolate, and we took seats at the window. Soon he appeared brandishing faux antique “Boulangerie à Paris” mugs filled to the brim with such a frothy, intensely chocolate drink that we yearned for a bottomless cup.
Sadly, it wasn’t. Don’t miss tasting this treat, where the chocolate comes from such countries as Indonesia, South Africa, South America, Haiti, and Dominican Republic. Why not purchase a fresh baguette as a side?
Although we weren’t hungry, thanks to the Quirky Carrot, Ronna says the buckwheat crepes stuffed with ham and melted cheese are “to die for.” Daudelin said: “I make them in the traditional Bretagne style, and Ronna’s correct: The buckwheat are best.”
As a token offering, I purchased some Cacao Barry brand dark chocolate and two buttery croissants so my husband Eric back home could sample some delights of Alexandria. They were consumed rather quickly.
Anything more? Chocolates. Linger longingly over Daudelin’s enticing homemade chocolates.
3. GLENGARRY TRAILS, PARKS, LAKES
Alexandria Island Park (corner of Park and Derby St. East) (northglengarry.ca) Downtown Alexandria is home to Island Park where there’s a small lake named Mill Pond. Here, find picnic spots (to enjoy your croissants or Quirky Carrot takeout) plus a paved walking trail, splash pad and children’s playground.
In season, Island Park offers swimming, boating, skating, cross-country skiing or snowshoeing. Plus, until Saturday, Oct. 8 (from 8:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.) there’s a farmers’ market here, lakeside — a great place to get farm-fresh Thanksgiving goodies.
Anything else special at Island Park? Starting Nov. 26 there’s the Alexandria Festival of Lights, where closing fireworks are on Dec. 31. Says Ronna: “It’s one of my favourite festivals: It’s really welcoming, and the community comes out to support it. If the weather co-operates it’s a lovely place to skate.”
Trails, you mentioned? The Friends of Glengarry Trails Association maintains a 15-km network, year-round. We strolled the Boardwalk Trail extending over a wetland. (Its trailhead is close to Island Park, see website for
4. GLENGARRY FINE CHEESE
5926 County Road 34, Lancaster (glengarryfinecheese.com) In nearby Lancaster, Ronna introduced me to this fromagerie, where we tasted samples of their award-winning Gouda style, blue and other cheeses. All are made from local milk, and as you drive here, no doubt you’ll see some of the quadruped suppliers.
Those cheeses? Ambrosia. Many are award winners in their categories, with the Gouda style Lankaaster Aged winning several medals. In 2013, it won “Global Supreme Champion for Overseas Cheese” at the Somerset, United Kingdom competition. Meanwhile, their Celtic Blue Reserve won the American Cheese Society Grand Champion in 2015.
Also available are irresistible, squeaky fresh curds — plus a host of other taste sensations. Why not take a basket along, and stock up on Christmas presents?
Anything else that’s, well, “cheesy” in Glengarry? Does lactose intolerance affect you? Then return to Alexandria to visit Fauxmagerie Zengarry (zengarry.com) where faux cheeses are made from cashew nuts. All are hand-crafted, no genetically modified ingredients are used, and cheeses are lacto-fermented for a maximum of 48 hours. It was challenging to decide which to purchase because all were yum — but I finally bought Pub Cheddar, made from Beau’s Brewery craft beer (located in nearby Prescott-Russell Township’s Vankleek Hill).
5. ST. RAPHAEL’S RUINS
19998 County Road 18, Williamstown (saintraphaelsruins.com) The pièce de résistance? Ronna had a simply outstanding surprise for me. Had I, she asked, heard of St. Raphael’s Ruins? I hadn’t, and was completely unprepared for the spectacle that’s far more reminiscent of an English landscape than Ontarian.
Imagine the splendour of the ruins of an immense stone Roman Catholic Church overlooking a pastoral setting of woodlands and undulating farmers’ fields. Towering over this landscape is the church’s remains, where a 1970 fire destroyed the roof, an 1830’s tower, and everything inside.
A photographer’s and historian’s dream, it’s something to behold. When we visited, we could explore inside — although the gates might be locked come autumn, Ronna notes. Don’t be deterred: Don’t miss this littleknown regional wonder. Heritage plaques outside tell the story, where the original congregation were Gaelic-speaking Scottish Catholic Highlanders who settled Glengarry around 1786.
I wager you’ll be as astonished and impressed as me, and come winter, it must rise from the snowdrifts in a splendid recollection of its former glory.
Parting with my friend Ronna — whom I’ve known through art since 1997, but never met — was merely a “see you soon.” Now I get to tour her around my home area in the Pontiac region of Quebec. But that’s for another story.