DISCOVERING LAURIER
Marking his 175th birthday
Refresh my memory of Laurier’s place in history.
Prime minister from 1896 to 1911, he was the first French-Canadian in the office. He still holds the record for the longest uninterrupted term as PM. A pragmatic, charismatic man, Wilfrid Laurier sought compromise and conciliation over divisive issues, such as funding Catholic schools in the West. During his tenure, British troops finally withdrew from Canada, our Navy was founded, and free trade with the U.S. was (unsuccessfully) promoted. He famously said the 20th century belonged to Canada, and set out to make it so. He authorized construction of a second transcontinental railroad. His aggressive immigration policy opened the West, bringing Saskatchewan and Alberta to provincial status. Just last month, Maclean’s ranked him Canada’s second best prime minister, after Mackenzie King.
Now, how does one celebrate him?
Begin on Parliament Hill, where Laurier toiled — and where he still stands, thanks to a statue on the Hill’s southeast corner. The bronze Laurier, designed by prolific Quebec sculptor Joseph-Émile Brunet, gazes upon the city Laurier believed should be “the Washington of the North.” To that end, he established the Ottawa Improvement Commission to beautify the capital. Among other things, this forerunner of the National Capital Commission replaced a tangle of warehouses and construction along the canal with greenery.
Where to next?
To where he lived from 1897 to 1919, Laurier House at 335 Laurier Ave. E. Laurier resided in this Second-Empire beauty, originally built for a jeweller. The national historic site is normally closed for the season, but this weekend will mark Laurier’s birthday with free admission, kids’ activities, and hour-long guided tours on both Saturday and Sunday. Visitors can see many artifacts: Everything from photos of the Lauriers’ 50th wedding anniversary to Lady Laurier’s player piano. In an interactive theatre presentation Saturday, visitors can follow historical characters, including Laurier himself, through the house to solve a mystery; there is a fee for this event, which must be booked in advance.
Did you mention something about Laurier’s death, too?
You’re paying attention, aren’t you? You can stop by the Canadian Museum of Nature (240 McLeod St.), where Laurier lay in state following his death from a series of strokes in 1919. The museum served as temporary quarters for Parliament after a devastating fire in 1916. Next stop: Notre-Dame Cathedral (at Sussex Drive and Guigues Street), where his funeral was held. If you’re like me, you’ll imagine the long walk by the pall bearers to the altar, and admire the beautiful vaulted ceiling, elaborate columns and Baroque assemblage of religious sculptures around the front of the sanctuary. Finally, you can head to Notre Dame Cemetery (455 Montreal Rd.), where Laurier is buried. His monument, depicting nine women holding a casket, is meant to represent the nine provinces that comprised the country at the time. It’s found immediately inside the cemetery’s main gate.
Any more places to celebrate?
The Fairmont Château Laurier (1 Rideau St.), obviously. It’s named after him as a thank-you for supporting the railroad that owned it. Laurier was the first to sign the registry. The hotel displays some Laurier artifacts in a corridor near the garage entrance; included are a walking stick, Laurier’s death mask, and a monogrammed Limoges dinner plate, a nice segue to rewarding yourself for your day’s outing.
Reward?
Of course. You could splurge on dinner at Wilfrid’s, the hotel’s dining room that again honours Laurier by name. Lunch items include an elk carpaccio appetizer ($16) and soy lacquered halibut ($30). Zoé’s, however, can provide a more informal alternative at the hotel. It’s named for Laurier’s wife, Zoé Lafontaine, who liked poker parties and helped found the National Council of Women (and who had to put up with a long-standing romantic rival).
For more than a dozen years, Peter Johansen has shared his day-trip experiences with readers of the Ottawa Citizen