EMBRACING THE BEAT
A guide to vibrant Old San Juan and the best of Puerto Rico’s unspoiled beauty
“You may not be born in Puerto Rico but Puerto Rican is definitely born in you.” — Rosie Perez
Passionate and mercurial San Juan has been on my bucket list for years. So I was elated to finally visit Puerto Rico’s urban island paradise, which is experiencing a revival of sorts with transplants and travellers.
Sandwiched between the Dominican Republic and the British Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico is the fourth-largest island in the Caribbean. Like Hawaii — but unlike most other cities on the U.S. mainland — Puerto Rico exists in its own unique cultural bubble. (But unlike Hawaii, Puerto Rico is not a state but a U.S. territory.)
Visitors have all the amenities and access as they would visiting Stateside, but Puerto Rico has managed to eschew the melting pot its mother country has adopted.
It’s too bad it isn’t a Canadian territory because it’s more of a mosaic. (Although it takes the Christmas season very seriously and celebrates the religious holiday from Dec. 18 to Jan. 16!)
Some Canadians are refusing to travel to the U.S. because of President Donald Trump’s controversial orders for a temporary travel ban (despite being put on hold following a second attempt)— along with the state of the Canadian dollar — but I urge travellers to make Puerto Rico an exception.
“We didn’t vote for Trump,” my driver informs me as we leave Luis Munoz Marin International Airport, in case I had other thoughts!
That is because residents — who are both U.S. and Puerto Rican citizens — don’t get to vote in U.S. federal elections.
For its part, San Juan is the largest city in Puerto Rico, and the second-oldest European capital city in the Americas.
On arrival, you instantly feel a natural yet seismic rhythm shift that almost compels you to dance to the beat of life — even if music isn’t playing.
Here is my cheat sheet to all things San Juan and area:
WHERE TO STAY
If you’re flying into San Juan and impatient to hit the beach — or start imbibing liquid calories — the moderately priced Verdanza Hotel (verdanzahotel.com) is ideal because it is a couple of blocks away from one of San Juan’s finest beaches. Located in Isla Verde, it’s also convenient to access shopping, the old town and other attractions.
THE WEATHER REPORT
San Juan delivers in spades with beautiful warm temperatures on land and sea. The average yearround temperature is 27.2 C.
AIRPLANE READING
Air Canada’s Toronto to San Juan flight is the best option (aircanada.com).
When you’re on the plane, I suggest reading Hunter S. Thompson’s first book, The Rum Diary, which was set in Puerto Rico in the late 1950s. The semi-biographical novel is based on Thompson’s adventures as a 20-something journalist in San Juan. Called “the great Puerto Rican novel,” it was turned into a movie starring Johnny Depp.
BEACHED IN PARADISE
Playing hooky one day, I brought a few beers — yes, it’s allowed — to Isla Verde Beach and was enveloped by the warm water (18 C by mid-morning), white sand and the ever-seductive sun.
A few locals sitting nearby told me they often spent their workday lunch hour on the beach drinking, swimming and chatting away. Life is enjoyed in San Juan.
HEARTBEAT OF SAN JUAN
The beat never dies in San Juan — especially in the La Placita de Santurce area.
Transformed five years ago by a gaggle of art gallery owners, the former industrial area has turned into a thriving marketplace/living art gallery thanks to graffitists and artists. Sides of buildings are decorated with awe-inspiring murals, gritty paintings and street art installations.
By night, restaurants and salsa bars come alive with revellers singing at open mikes and spilling out onto the streets to get their groove on with salsa.
LET THERE BE FOOD
For sustenance, La Casita Blanca (787-726-5501) does the trick: The family-owned business has been around for more than 35 years and serves fare such as veal fricassee, grilled shrimp and Puerto Rican lasagna with ripe plantains.
At Santaella (shop.santaellapr. com), chef Jose Santaella embraces his rich heritage and delivers Caribbean food while holding tightly to the island’s cocina criolla recipes.
Like beach and food combing? Head to Terruno (terrunopr.com), a great seaside restaurant that serves lobster and grilled meats. It’s at La Monserrate, one of Puerto Rico’s Blue Flag Beaches.
MUCHO ADVENTURE
Cruising to Culebra: Puerto Rico’s offshore islands are so gorgeous that some served as backdrops in the Pirates of the Caribbean films. The best day of my trip revolved around a visit to one of the territory’s most beautiful spots — Flamenco Beach in Culebra. Once you leave the marina in Puerto Del Rey, the adventure begins during a 45-minute jaunt on a high-speed catamaran. Culebra inspired me for the first time to explore the mercurial reefs during an hour of snorkelling. Tours can be arranged at eastislandpr.com.
Kayaking in the bio bay: I was a kayaking virgin before a pal strapped on a life vest and threw me in the kayak at Laguna Grande to catch a glimpse of the lagoon’s bioluminescent organisms. See kayakingpuertorico.com/pages/ biobay.html.
Rainforest hike: As the only tropical rainforest in the U.S., El Yunque National Forest will overwhelm you with its biodiversity, myriad trails, mountains that rise to 1,080 metres above sea level, 240 tree species, and 5,000 millimetres of rainfall. Open yearround, you can set up a day tour at rstpuertorico.com.
TRAVEL TIDBITS
Famous Puerto Ricans include Marc Anthony, Joaquin Phoenix, Benicio Del Toro, Rita Moreno and Ricky Martin.
With two defensive forts (Fort San Felipe del Morro and Fort San Cristobal), San Juan has always been an important sea port.
There are no bears or poisonous snakes.
The piña colada has been the national drink since 1978, when it was created in Old San Juan.
Turtles are protected by law. It’s a $10, 000 fine if you harm one.
Transit fare is 75 cents, but it’s not very reliable.
Cockfights are considered a gentleman’s sport and roosters are bred to fight.