A CULTURAL IMMERSION TREK ON THE MEKONG
Friendly locals, stunning scenery enrich river journey through Cambodia, Vietnam
To this day, one of the most fascinating river cruises I’ve ever taken was a journey through Cambodia and Vietnam along the mighty Mekong River. I’d never been to either country before, and my arrival into the Cambodian city of Siem Reap just minutes before midnight was a crash course in cultural immersion, as my tourist visa was filled out on the spot by an assembly line of people who would stamp, mark, and paste the visa into my passport. Right there. In minutes. I sailed with AmaWaterways (cruise.center/AMA), a line well-known for its contemporary, classy river cruise journeys along the waterways of Europe. But AmaWaterways was an early adopter of cruising along the Mekong, and the line has spent a substantial amount of money to ensure that its ships on the Mekong are among the most comfortable.
Many vessels on the Mekong have small cabins with doors that open to an outdoor (and incredibly hot and humid) Promenade Deck. AmaWaterways decided it would be worth designing a vessel in conjunction with its local partners that features air-conditioned interior spaces, including a climatecontrolled central corridor, much like you would see on river cruises in Europe.
Over the course of a week, AmaWaterways’ Riches of the Mekong itinerary travels from Siem Reap, Cambodia to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, or the reverse. Along the way, it visits some of the most stunning sites on the Mekong. This includes Siem Reap, where a few precruise days should be scheduled in order to tour the magnificent UNESCO World Heritage Site of Angkor Wat.
While travelling along the Mekong, you never really dock. Instead, your ship anchors midstream and local boats take you on scenic cruising trips past floating villages and impossibly beautiful scenery. Guests are also able to come ashore, treated to walks through local markets and villages. I could rattle their names off here, but you won’t have heard of them. Some are so small that they don’t even appear on local maps.
The most difficult day, by far, is in the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh. Here, guests are able to tour the Killing Fields of the murderous Khmer Rouge regime, along with the truly grim Tuol Sleng S21 Detention Centre. The former is oddly peaceful today despite its disturbing past; the latter still gives me nightmares. Fortunately, Phnom Penh’s ancient and modern history is also on display; an emerging metropolis with deep roots in the past that has to be experienced at least once.
What you find at every turn on this itinerary, though, are the bright, vibrant smiles of the friendly locals. Everyone is very keen to practise their English with you, and the local markets are almost adrenalin-inducing as vendors offer up all manner of things, eager for you to try their wares. AmaWaterways does a great job of taking visitors to real, local businesses and places, from the candy factory in Cai Be, Vietnam, to the silver and copper-smithing village of Coh Chen, Cambodia.
While I sailed aboard the AmaLotus a few years back, that ship has now been replaced with the new AmaDara: a 302-footlong ship capable of carrying 124 guests and a crew of 52. Staterooms on board start at a very spacious 251 square feet, and even the most standard accommodation includes AmaWaterways’ signature Twin Balcony concept that features both a French balcony and full step-out balcony within the same room. Rooms are panelled with gorgeous wood accents, and each room includes a flat-panel television, full air conditioning, a writing desk, a mini-bar, bathrobe and slippers, and complimentary bottled water replenished daily.
For more space, AmaDara features two magnificent Luxury Suites that come in at 502 square feet, adding a larger sitting area, a king-sized bed, and bathrooms that feature both standup showers and proper tubs.
AmaDara sails the Mekong from Siem Reap and Ho Chi Minh City between now and December. If you’re looking to stay longer, AmaWaterways offers a seven-day pre- or postcruise extension that adds two nights in Hanoi; one night in Ha Long Bay; three nights in Siem Reap pre-cruise; and two nights post-cruise in Ho Chi Minh City.
Happy cruising. Visit portsandbows.com, sponsored by Expedia CruiseShipCenters, 1-800-707-7327, www.cruiseshipcenters.com, for daily updates on the latest cruise news, best deals and behind-the-scenes stories from the industry. You can also sign up for an email newsletter on the site for even more cruise information. Aaron Saunders may be contacted directly at portsandbowsaaron@gmail.com