GOLDEN MOMENT
Winter Games will put spotlight on South Korea’s scenic beauty, rich culture
From the teeming streets and bright lights of Seoul to the windswept mountains of Jeongseon and the bustling beach cafés of Gangneung, South Korea is ready for its close-up.
Thirty years after hosting the 1988 Summer Games in Seoul, the country is merely weeks away from welcoming the world to the 2018 Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang.
Finishing touches on the Olympic venues are nearly complete, but the constellation of cities and towns hosting the Games is primed to showcase the natural beauty of the landscape, the romance of the culture, millenniums of rich history and, most deliciously, the food.
It is also an opportunity for South Korea to escape the ominous shadow of its infamous northern neighbour. Security is an unavoidable concern when travelling to South Korea these days, but tourism and Olympic officials are quick to reassure visitors it is business as usual.
Within hours of landing for my excursion, my niggling doubts had faded and it was easy to forget I was less than 100 kilometres from one of the world’s most contentious and militarized borders.
If you are planning a trip that happens to coincide with the Olympics (which run Feb. 9-25), I suggest tacking on a few days to explore the host province, Gangwondo, away from the Olympic crowds.
GANGWON-DO IN 72 HOURS Local attractions: Arirang School Memories Museum, Jeongseon
Nestled along a winding riverbank in a former coal-mining town about 45 minutes outside of Pyeongchang, the museum boasts thousands of artifacts that tell the story of South Korea’s contemporary history from the 19th century onward. There is a special exhibition room dedicated to the region’s coal mining past and the impact shuttering the mines had on the local economy and the area’s rebirth as a resort area.
The name of the museum references Arirang, a Korean folksong that is at once a rallying cry and unofficial national anthem. There are dozens of versions of Arirang but the original, written more than 500 years ago, originated in Jeongseon. The version that is sung here is said to be the most poetic and beautiful version.
When I visited, there was little visitor information in English but the exhibit speaks for itself even without robust translations.
Byeongbanchi skywalk and zip line, Arii Hills, Jeongseon
Ever wonder how it feels to step out over the edge of a cliff, into the abyss and walk on air? The Byeongbanchi skywalk lets you test-drive your inner daredevil.
Anchored into the side of a cliff and suspended 600 metres in the air, the glass skywalk provides magnificent unobstructed views of the Donggang River below, as well as the adjacent mountain range and Bamseom Island, which is said to resemble the Korean Peninsula. If you’re afraid of heights, you might want to skip the skywalk and take in the view from the safety of the lookout instead.
After the skywalk, consider taking the zip line down into the canyon. (Full disclosure: I skipped the zip line, which is clearly meant for people made of stronger stock. Not for the faint of heart.) The zip line is just over one kilometre long and reaches speeds of close to 100 km/h.
Once you’ve survived that ordeal, you’ve earned a coffee and pastry break in the restaurant overlooking the canyon. Spectacular views are worth the trip (and the coffee).
Woljeongsa Temple
A path through the forested valley east of the Odaesan Mountains lead to the Woljeongsa Temple.
The temple has stood since the sixth century and now oversees 60 temples and eight monasteries in the region.
Although several buildings were destroyed during the Korean War, the temple has been restored to its original splendour.
Visitors can wander through the forest to the temple’s main gate, enter the temple grounds and visit dozens of pagodas.
For visitors seeking complete respite, the temple offers a stay program with overnight accommodations. Be sure to visit the tea shop near the main gate to warm up by the cast iron wood stove and sample potent, pungent spring green tea.
Haslla Art World Museum
One of the unexpected delights of the trip came at the Haslla Art World Museum overlooking the East Sea.
The museum features five indoor galleries showcasing the eccentric private collection.
Outside, paths wind through the trees and up the side of a bluff behind the museum, allowing visitors to explore the terrain, with the sound of the waves crashing below, and immerse themselves in the museum’s sculpture garden. But it’s the sweeping sea views that really steal the show.
Anmok Beach, Gangneung
Take a short drive out of Gangneung’s downtown core and you will find the beautiful sandy beaches of Anmok lined with stands of pine trees buffering nearby streets and restaurants from the wind.