ANDALUSIA: STEEPED IN HISTORY
The quintessential image of Spain is the southern region of Andalusia, home of bullfights, flamenco, whitewashed hill towns, and glamorous Mediterranean resorts. And while much of the region’s appeal is in its hill and coastal retreats, at the heart of Andalusia are three great cities: Granada, Cordoba, and Sevilla.
Granada is the famous last home of the (Muslim) Moors, who were driven out of Spain and back to Africa in 1492 during the Reconquista — the “reconquering” of Spain by Spaniards and Christians. Its top site is the Alhambra, the last and greatest Moorish palace in Europe. Perched atop a hill and filled with colourful ornate stucco, scalloped filigree windows, exuberant gardens, bubbling fountains, and peaceful pools, the palace highlights the splendour of Moorish civilization in the 13th and 14th centuries.
While much of Granada feels Spanish, the Albayzin — the old Moorish quarter — retains its labyrinthine, Moroccan-souk feel. Located on a hill across from the Alhambra, it has stunning views across to the palace. I like to come here at sunset and eat at one of the view restaurants or picnic at the San Nicolas terrace, which comes with great Roma music nearly all day long. Pop a few euros into the musicians’ hat, and enjoy an open-air concert as good as many you might pay much more for.
Because of its significance in the Reconquista, Ferdinand and Isabel, the greatest king and queen of Spain, decided to use Granada as their capital. It was here that they listened to Christopher Columbus’ final pitch for a sea voyage to the Orient and agreed to finance the trip. At the Royal Chapel, travellers can view the king and queen’s elaborately carved Renaissance-style tombs.
About 160 kilometres northwest of Granada is Cordoba, another great Moorish city and home to the Mezquita, a splendid former mosque. Once the heart of Western Islam’s cultural capital, the Mezquita has lost little of its grandeur over time — making it easy for visitors to imagine the ambience of Islamic Cordoba in its 10th-century prime. Inside the mosque, a huge 16th-century cathedral rises from the centre.
Though some travellers stop in Cordoba for just a few hours to blitz the Mezquita, it’s worth spending a night here to explore other aspects of the city: the modern district; the Jewish quarter, with a small yet beautifully preserved synagogue; and its patios. These delightful little edens serve as outdoor living spaces, hiding behind intricate ironwork gates and filled with flowers overflowing from their pots over whitewashed walls, amid colourful ceramics and doors.
Just 45 minutes by high-speed train from Cordoba is Sevilla, the capital of Andalusia. While Granada has the great Alhambra and Cordoba has the remarkable Mezquita, Sevilla has a soul.
Sevilla’s two big sites are its cathedral and royal palace. Unlike in Cordoba, Reconquista Christians ripped down Sevilla’s mosque to build a cathedral, announcing that it would so big, “anyone who sees it will take us for madmen.” It’s still the second-largest church in Europe (by volume), after St. Peter’s at the Vatican.
Just a few remnants of the former mosque remain, including the giant bell tower, which was once the minaret. Today, visitors can walk to the top of the bell tower for grand views. The cathedral also houses Christopher Columbus’ tomb.
Sevilla’s old palace (Alcazar) is decorated with a mix of Islamic and Christian elements — a style called Mudejar. While the Alhambra in Granada was built by Moors for their own rulers, Sevilla’s Alcazar was built by Moorish artisans in the Moorish style, mostly for Christian rulers. Spectacularly decorated halls and courtyards have distinctive Islamic-style flourishes, such as elaborate designs on stucco, colourful ceramic tile, lobed arches atop slender columns, and Arabic writing on the walls.
The palace is also where Queen Isabel administered the business of the country’s nautical explorations, Columbus recounted his travels and Magellan planned his around-the-world cruise.
When visiting Sevilla, flamenco is a must. This music-and-dance art form has its roots in the Roma and Moorish cultures. The men do most of the flamboyant footwork while the women often concentrate on graceful turns and smooth, shuffling steps. In the raspy-voiced wails of the singers, you’ll hear echoes of the Muslim call to prayer. Performances range from serious concerts to tourist-centric shows.
Southern Spain’s three big cities provide an interesting look at the Moorish influence on Spanish culture. Each is worth a visit.