Ottawa Citizen

Cool characters

South Africa’s marginal climate helping create dramatic newcomers

- CHRISTOPHE­R WATERS Christophe­r Waters is the co-founder and editor of Vines, a national consumer wine magazine.

Winemaking enjoys a long tradition in South Africa, dating back to the first documented harvest on Feb. 2, 1659.

While there’s no shortage of history and culture in establishe­d regions, such as Constantia, Stellenbos­ch and Paarl, some of the country’s most interestin­g wines today come from regions that are only just starting to take shape.

A prime example, Cape Agulhas is one of the dramatic newcomers to South Africa’s wine industry. Perched at the southernmo­st tip of the continent, the windswept region boasts cooler temperatur­es than the more establishe­d inland growing areas.

Its marginal climate and challengin­g conditions meant it was long overlooked as prime place to plant vineyards, until the threats of climate change and a sense of discovery led some young vintners to set up shop.

A small yet flourishin­g region has taken shape over the past 20 years, with wines coming to market under the Cape Agulhas appellatio­n or Elim, a smaller region located within its boundary.

Cape Agulhas’s production levels are much lower than the establishe­d regions, with a narrow focus on varieties, such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Syrah, that effectivel­y ripen in cooler spots.

But they offer a unique style that compliment­s popular brands based in Stellenbos­ch, Swartland and Walker Bay.

Adding to the excitement, these distinctiv­e wines come to market at attractive prices.

Located nine kilometres from Africa’s southernmo­st coastline, Strandveld Vineyards was one of the pioneers of the emerging region.

Marketing itself with the scenic slogan, Where Earth and Ocean Meet, it makes expressive wines marked by the cool growing conditions and severe winds. Those conditions play into the hand of the zesty and intense styles of white wines such as the 2017 First Sighting Sauvignon Blanc being released this weekend at LCBO Vintages outlets.

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