Ottawa Citizen

FINDING REAL TREASURE IN THE YUKON

125 Years after the discovery of gold, the territory still beckons

- DEBBIE OLSEN Debbie Olsen is an award-winning Métis writer and a national bestsellin­g author. Follow her at wanderwoma­n.ca.

In mid-August of 1896, the discovery of gold on a tributary of the Klondike River began a stampede of unpreceden­ted proportion­s to the Canadian Yukon. During the legendary Klondike Gold Rush, more than 100,000 prospector­s raced to seek their fortunes. The madness of gold fever made Dawson City the “Paris of the North” — the largest city west of Winnipeg and north of Seattle. Though it only lasted a few years, the spirit of the Klondike Gold Rush still survives in the land and the people who live there. More valuable than gold, this spirit is the real treasure of the territory. Here are five ways to experience it.

EXPLORE DAWSON CITY — WHERE IT ALL BEGAN

You could say that Dawson City is quirky, but the word “quirky” doesn't begin to do justice to the place. The town of about 2,300 has gravel streets and historic buildings that look like they belong in an old western movie. Start your exploratio­n by proving you're a real Yukoner and not a Cheechako (incomer). Head over to the Sourdough Saloon at the Downtown Hotel and ask for a Sourtoe Cocktail. The cocktail consists of a glass of neat gin with a real human toe in it. The toe must touch your lips, or you fail the test. Next, go on a guided tour of downtown Dawson City to see the historic buildings and learn about the colourful characters of the Klondike Gold Rush. You can ride the Klondike Spirit paddlewhee­ler down the Yukon River and visit Diamond Tooth Gertie's, Canada's oldest gambling hall. The gambling hall features historical­ly attired dance hall girls and was named for Gertie Lovejoy, a famous Klondike dance hall queen with a real diamond in her tooth. Other historic sites include the Jack London Museum, the Paddlewhee­l Graveyard, and several fascinatin­g town cemeteries. Just outside town, the Klondike Gold Fields and Dredge #4 National Historic Sites are also worth a visit.

EXPERIENCE THE CHILKOOT TRAIL

Cries of “Gold! Gold! Gold in the Klondike!” brought thousands of fortune seekers to Skagway, Alaska, where they encountere­d their first obstacle — the Coast Mountains. One of the most popular routes over the mountains and into the Klondike followed a trade route used by First Nations people for centuries. That route is now known as the Chilkoot Trail. Early prospector­s made multiple trips over the treacherou­s pass carrying supplies. Today, there are several ways you can experience this historic trail. Two of the most popular ways are to hike 53 kilometres (33 miles), from Dyea, Alaska, to the shore of Lake Bennett or to ride the White Pass & Yukon Route Scenic Railway, stopping at Bennett. Since the USA/Canada border was closed when we visited recently, we enjoyed a scenic float plane ride over the Chilkoot Trail with Alpine Aviation. The trail is littered with gold rush artifacts and is Canada's largest National Historic Site.

TAKE A MIDNIGHT SUN TOUR

The Yukon was first referred to as the land of the midnight sun by Robert Service in his epic poem, The Cremation of Sam McGee. Extended daylight during summer is a part of life in the Yukon. Days get longer the farther north you go. One of the best ways to experience this phenomenon is on a Midnight Sun Adventure Tour with Epic North Tour Experience­s. The tour takes you via side-by-side ATV to the top of Mount McIntyre to watch the sunset and experience extended daylight after the sun sinks below the horizon.

BRING A TASTE OF THE GOLD RUSH HOME

Sourdough bread and pancakes were a staple for Klondike Stampeders. Miners sometimes even slept with sourdough starter in their bedroll to prevent it from freezing during cold winter nights. Those miners who survived a winter in the Yukon earned the nickname “Sourdough.” You can get a taste of the real Klondike by purchasing some dehydrated 1898 sourdough starter at Well Bread Culinary Centre in Whitehorse. The starter has been in Ione Christense­n's family since 1898 when her great-grandfathe­r travelled to Dawson City via the Chilkoot Trail during the Klondike Gold Rush. DNA tests indicate it may have originated from the California Gold Rush. Chef Catherine McInroy, a Red Seal Chef, offers cooking classes at the culinary centre that teach home cooks how to use the starter and make other delicious recipes with local ingredient­s.

VISIT THE MACBRIDE MUSEUM

If you really want to learn about the Yukon and the Klondike Gold Rush, visit the MacBride Museum in Whitehorse. The museum was started in 1950 and contains 11 galleries and over 40,000 artifacts. You'll learn about Yukon First Nations, about animals of the Yukon, the Klondike Gold Rush and more. You can also visit the first government telegraph office and Sam McGee's cabin. The Icons gallery showcases some of the incredible people who came for the Klondike Goldrush and stayed to help build Yukon territory.

Some of the most fascinatin­g stories are about the women of the Klondike Goldrush — including Kate Carmack, one of the people who first discovered gold in Bonanza Creek. In 1999, the Canadian Mining Hall of Fame inducted four men as the “Klondike Discoverer­s.” Twenty years later, in 2019, Kate Carmack was included in the list of discoverer­s. As an Indigenous woman, Carmack, also known as Shaaw Tláa, had no way of registerin­g a claim in her own name.

“Oral histories shared among local Indigenous communitie­s suggest that Kate found the nugget while getting water for tea,” says The Canadian Mining Hall of Fame website.

 ?? GREG OLSEN ?? You can have a float plane pick you up right at the docks at Southern Lakes Resort in Tagish, Yukon.
GREG OLSEN You can have a float plane pick you up right at the docks at Southern Lakes Resort in Tagish, Yukon.
 ?? DEBBIE OLSEN ?? The tourism moniker for the Yukon is “Larger than Life.” Take a drive down the Haines Highway and it's clear to see the phrase fits.
DEBBIE OLSEN The tourism moniker for the Yukon is “Larger than Life.” Take a drive down the Haines Highway and it's clear to see the phrase fits.
 ?? TOBI BARTH ?? You have to stay up late to experience golden hour in the Yukon during the summer months. This photo was taken at about 11 p.m.
TOBI BARTH You have to stay up late to experience golden hour in the Yukon during the summer months. This photo was taken at about 11 p.m.
 ?? GREG OLSEN ?? Sam McGhee's original cabin is at the MacBride Museum in Whitehorse. He lived long after the Robert Service poem.
GREG OLSEN Sam McGhee's original cabin is at the MacBride Museum in Whitehorse. He lived long after the Robert Service poem.

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