Taking the bite out of THE BIG APPLE
Tips for tackling this expensive city on a budget
New York is one of the world's most expensive cities. Add soaring inflation and a sinking Canadian dollar and it's easier than ever to overspend on a getaway there. Pricey cab rides here, expensive meals there, and hefty attraction admission fees can quickly devour even a generous travel budget.
New York also offers a lot. With five boroughs, hundreds of charming neighbourhoods and thousands of intriguing attractions, the Big Apple really is larger than life.
And while even the most extreme budget traveller is unlikely to truly do New York on a dime, if you plan on where to scrimp and where to splurge you can still do the things that are important to you and not come home broke.
Here are some ideas and some money-saving tips from my recent three-night visit:
■ Minimize taxis and get around like a local — walk or take public transit.
For example, the Porter Airlines flight from Toronto lands in Newark, N.J. The taxi ride to Midtown Manhattan typically runs about US$90-$100. Depending on where you're staying, the train ($15) from the airport to Penn Station in Midtown might be a money-saving option. From there you can take the subway or a cheaper cab ride to your hotel.
Even short cab rides can cost $25$35. But a $33 Metrocard (new. mta.info) provides unlimited rides on subways and buses for seven days. (The subway can be confusing but transit staff are helpful.)
NYC Ferry ($4 one way), links Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, Staten Island and the Bronx. The Staten Island Ferry is free and provides excellent views of the Statue of Liberty.
■ To soak up some local culture, I booked a walking tour of Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn Bridge and DUMBO with Like A Local Tours (likealocaltours.com). At $68, it covered lunch, introduced me to areas I may never have discovered and kicked off an entire day of otherwise free sightseeing.
My travelling companion and I arrived early and discovered the Brooklyn Borough Hall Greenmarket — and tempting mounds of farm fresh produce, preserves and baked goods — happening nearby.
The three-hour tour combined easily digestible bites of history with tasty real bites — pastry, pizza, tacos, ice cream and more — from local shops. As we strolled the leafy brownstone-lined streets, knowledgeable guide Bridget Quisiguina explained that the charming neighbourhood is home to some of New York's richest residents and many A-list celebrities. She pointed out places where literary heavyweights Arthur Miller and Truman Capote once lived and did some of their best work.
We strolled the waterfront promenade for a little Revolutionary War history and views of Manhattan. After more stops, the tour ended at DUMBO, next to Brooklyn Bridge Park where New Yorkers were revelling in the balmy fall weather.
“Many people believe DUMBO was named for the Disney elephant,” Quisiguina told us, laughing, “but it actually stands for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass.”
Once rundown, the district now thrives. Converted warehouses and cobblestone streets are populated by shops, cafés and galleries.
The tour ended, but our sightseeing continued. Brooklyn Flea — a weekend market that runs April to December — was in full swing under the Manhattan Bridge. Stalls laden with collectibles, jewelry and crafts beckoned shoppers and browsers. (Sister market Chelsea Flea runs year-round).
We backtracked along the waterfront, then took the East River ferry to Williamsburg, another happening Brooklyn neighbourhood. Tired from our day of walking, we decided a splurge was in order and treated ourselves to a relaxing dinner at Le Crocodile, a sleek French-style brasserie in the Wythe Hotel (lecrocodile.com).
■ Central Park is justly famous but it's not New York's only standout green space.
Hudson River Park runs seven kilometres from Midtown to Battery Park along Manhattan's west side. It has walking and bicycle paths, waterfront benches and recreational facilities. Some of the abandoned shipping piers along its length have been rebuilt for other uses.
The High Line is another popular free attraction. Built on an abandoned elevated rail line, the creative green space runs through Chelsea and the meat-packing district and offers great views. Free tours run year-round.
■ For visitors who want to visit iconic attractions, the New York CITYPASS can save up to 42 per cent on admissions. There are two options. The first ($129), provides access to five of eight top sites, including the Empire State Building. A C3 pass ($92), provides admission to three of 11 attractions, including the Edge at Hudson Yards, the highest outdoor sky deck in the Western world. Some museums and attractions also have their own discounts.
Skyscraper observation decks, vintage ones like the Empire State Building and 21st-century wonders such as Summit at One Vanderbilt and the Edge (both opened in 2020), continue to fascinate. Summit (summitov.com, from $39), puts thrilling new spins on sky-high views with immersive art installations by Kenzo Digital.
■ Diners can opt for tasty casual fare at places like Chelsea Market and DUMBO'S Time Out Market.
■ A great hotel is an important part of my experience.
■ On this trip, I stayed at Margaritaville Resort Times Square and The Beekman, a Thompson Hotel.
Margaritaville lived up to its reputation — busy, buzzy, fun, with beachy vibes (margaritavilleresorts.com). It borders the equally busy, buzzy Times Square.
The Beekman, in Lower Manhattan, has a long and storied history. Once derelict, it opened as a hotel in 2016 after an inspired renovation that kept elements of the 19th-century landmark building.
■ Nycgo.com offers extensive info on travel and discount events such as Hotel Week, Jan. 9-Feb. 12.
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