Use the `sand can' storage idea to keep root vegetables fresh
Q The Complete Root Cellar Book you wrote in 2010 inspired me to try your `sand can' idea for storing root crops. Does it need any ventilation?
A The sand can approach uses a new, metal garbage can to keep root crops fresh for a long time in a root cellar. Lay down three or four inches of dry sand on the bottom of the can, then place unblemished carrots, beets or potatoes on the sand close to each other but not touching.
Add another layer of dry sand on top, then more vegetables, then more sand until you have reached the top. Keep the lid on the can and it will preserve internal humidity and boost storage life. The only thing the sand can needs is to be kept in a cool space that never freezes. Temperatures a few degrees above freezing are ideal, but in practice, things usually get warmer than that. Anything up to about 4 or 5 C (about 40 F) is pretty good. Dig down as you need to retrieve your vegetables, trowelling out excess sand into another container as you work your way down.
As for ventilation, no. The idea with the covered sand can is that it holds moisture that would otherwise escape and let the root crops dry out. Just be sure to use dry sand to load the can.
INSULATING A COLD FLOOR Q What's the best, most practical DIY option for insulating a floor above a four-foot crawl space?
A One of my favourite approaches is to add rigid sheets of 2-inch thick extruded polystyrene foam insulation on top of the subfloor, with a layer of 5/8 inch plywood on top, fastened to the underlying joists with screws that go right through the foam. For this to work you need to add a new finished floor on top. If that's not what you plan, closed cell spray foam between the joists and on the bottom of the subfloor will work well, too. One thing I've never seen work well is batt insulation stuff up between the joists. It tends to work it's way down with vibrations from foot traffic, and mice love to make nasty nests and tunnels in it.
Even with lots of insulation in the floor, it will never feel truly warm underfoot. For that to happen, you should consider electric in-floor heating as part of your plans. My favourite is DITRA-HEAT made by Schluter. It's easy to install and has proven reliable over years in my experience.
MAKING A “SEALED IN GLASS” TABLE TOP Q How do I finish a wooden table so it looks like it's covered in thick glass, but the wood grain pattern still shows through?
A The effect you're talking about is accomplished with clear epoxy resin. It comes as a liquid that you mix with a hardener. Depending on the formulation, you have more or less time to get the liquid epoxy poured before it starts to firm up and harden. One feature you'll need when working with a table top is to build raised edges around the perimeter of the top to contain the liquid epoxy when it goes down. The thickness of epoxy is generally 1/4 of an inch or so.
You can expect the epoxy to be smooth and fairly attractive without further work, but you can also polish the surface for a truly glass-smooth and shiny result. Start by sanding the area flat with an 80-grit belt in a belt sander, working through with 120-, then 180-grit belts. After that switch to 220-grit in a lightly-wielded random orbit sander, working up to 320-, 400-, 600- then 800-grit. Beyond that you can switch to a polishing pad and auto polisher using progress grades of polishing liquid.
Steve Maxwell is always amazed about what polishing can do for furniture, floors, cars and all painted metal. Visit his collection of 2000 hands-on, how-to articles and videos at baileylineroad.com.