Co­rian­der Seed

Co­rian­der Seed

Ottawa Magazine - - Contents - By Cindy Deachman

No one thinks twice about co­rian­der. Ex­cept for one Siberian no­mad of the Pazyryk Val­ley whose grave, dat­ing from the fourth or third cen­tury BCE held a leather-and-leop­ard-fur pouch with cop­per birds sewn on, cov­ered with gold leaf. In the bag were cul­ti­vated co­rian­der seeds. Why bury them? Per­haps co­rian­der fetched as high a price then as pep­per­corns did later for 15th-cen­tury Lon­don­ers. Since the Re­nais­sance, co­rian­der seed has trans­formed into the Cin­derella of spices — at least in Europe and North Amer­ica. But top billing still goes to chilies, cin­na­mon, or gin­ger. Let’s change all that.

Abate Pear Poached in Co­rian­der and Earl Grey Syrup, Bit­ter­sweet Choco­late Sauce with Chilies and Cin­na­mon, Saf­fron Honey and Tan­ger­ine Ice Cream, Sesame/ Co­rian­der Tu­ile

It starts with a pear. “I’m a fruit dessert kind of guy,” says Ab­sinthe chef/ owner Pa­trick Gar­land. Add choco­late sauce and ice cream, and it’s “The Three­penny Opera.” The dessert it­self is Poire belle Hélène (orig­i­nally in­spired by Of­fen­bach’s 1864 op­er­atic hero­ine) “with an In­dian romp on it,” says Gar­land. Co­rian­der seeds are used in ev­ery part of the dish. The lux­u­ri­ous sweet­ness of the saf­fron-tan­ger­ine ice cream off­sets bit­ter­sweet yet creamy choco­late, which is dec­o­rated with garam masala. Run­ning down the sides of the poached pear: liq­uid gold. Re­ally and truly. $9. Ab­sinthe, 1208 Welling­ton St. W., 613-761-1138.

An­cho Espresso Short Ribs

A roar­ing fire, ribs on the spit. Camp­fire cof­fee all around, then some fool in a Stet­son bursts into song with “Tum­bling Tum­ble­weeds.” Epi­cu­ria’s short ribs are ten­der, meaty, deboned. The sauce is rich and ex­otic. An­chos are fruity, fairly mild, with only a lit­tle nip de­tected. Co­rian­der, a vagabond in South Amer­ica since 15th-cen­tury con­quis­ta­dors set up shop, has been mak­ing its way north ever since. Here, the seed is toasted, ground, and added in a rub. Eat this suc­cu­lent dish with john­ny­cake. $14. Epi­cu­ria, 357 St. Lau­rent Blvd., 613-745-7356.

Urad Dahl

Typ­i­cally, tourists to In­dia stop in Delhi only to trans­fer else­where. Not Ron Farmer. As co-owner of The Green Door Restau­rant, he will go there to re­search dahl. Nat­u­rally, he’s dining at Shaka­hari — a 53-yearold restau­rant within the 366-year-old walls of Old Delhi — which is fa­mous for urad dahl, a tiny black lentil that, hulled and split, is creamy white. One of Farmer’s ver­sions fea­tures garam masala, chilies, and the In­dian spice asafoetida. Round­ing out the whole dish? Co­rian­der. $2.20/100 g. The Green Door Restau­rant, 198 Main St., 613-234-9697.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada

© PressReader. All rights reserved.