CLOVER FOOD AND DRINK

With so many chefs in this city surfing the latest wave — setting up in hip locales and making a splash with the decor — Clover is clearly wending its own sweet way. Co-owner/chef West de Castro, former sous-chef of the late ZenKitchen, opened Clover in 2014 and has continued to innovate — without going overboard — ever since.

From her oven, a humble roast chicken seems the ultimate in luxury. But don’t be fooled: de Castro has the French classics of mirepoix, demi-glace, and fines-herbes aïoli down pat. On top of that, she pickles shimeji mushrooms, puts up cherry mostarda, and collects honey from her own backyard apiary for crème brûlée. This is local food taken to the next level.

There are complex dishes, such as a clear broth gazpacho with a riot of feta-stuffed zucchini blossoms, shaved cucumbers, multi-coloured tomatoes, apricots, young basil, and pine nuts. But there’s also the simplicity of a chicken-liver pâté graced only with fine shavings of Granny Smith apples. A rustic dish of rabbit comes with Jerusalem artichokes, broccoli, and soft, chewy oyster mushrooms. Service is downright playful and spot-on; the small dining room is relaxed and airy, the bare space enlivened by local art on the walls. The wine list is strictly Ontario, the craft-beer lineup continuing that local love with limited releases from Ottawa breweries and unique choices by the can and on tap.

At some point during the meal, the exacting de Castro herself comes out to welcome you, a sure sign of her thoughtfulness.