SUPPLY AND DEMAND

Since opening in 2013, this restaurant has taken surf and turf in a delightfully modern direction.

Among the first to put raw foods front and centre, Supply and Demand also offers an upscale ambience — with its stylish wallpaper, classic floor tile, tufted banquettes, and open kitchen, it’s a space where you’ll want to linger. The team of chef Steve Wall and general manager Jenn Wall have created a winning combination of respect for ingredients and friendly, knowledgeable service.

The menu is divided into succinct sections: a selection of small plates, raw and marinated seafood, a few fresh pastas, and two meaty mains. It’s an approach that works for those who like to share as well as for others who like the traditional starter-andmain experience. Start with freshly shucked oysters or a zingy scallop crudo before diving into the pillowy bread rolls served with whipped bacon butter. Vegetables shine in umami-filled small plates: a kale salad is downright rich thanks to an impressive manchego-cheese-to-kale ratio. The squid-ink rigatoni makes it easy to see why folks sign up for pasta classes with Steve.

Drinks include a nice selection of wine (bubbly pairs well with the bivalves) and beer, along with changing cocktails.

A towering Eton mess in summertime and a flaming baked Alaska in wintertime are dramatic sweet finishes.

Aside from seasonal variations, the menu doesn’t change often, but there’s comfort in knowing these offerings will knock it out of the park every time.