SUP­PLY AND DE­MAND

Ottawa Magazine - - WELLINGTON WEST -

Since open­ing in 2013, this restau­rant has taken surf and turf in a de­light­fully modern di­rec­tion.

Among the first to put raw foods front and cen­tre, Sup­ply and De­mand also of­fers an up­scale am­bi­ence — with its stylish wall­pa­per, clas­sic floor tile, tufted ban­quettes, and open kitchen, it’s a space where you’ll want to linger. The team of chef Steve Wall and gen­eral man­ager Jenn Wall have cre­ated a win­ning com­bi­na­tion of re­spect for in­gre­di­ents and friendly, knowl­edge­able ser­vice.

The menu is di­vided into suc­cinct sec­tions: a se­lec­tion of small plates, raw and mar­i­nated seafood, a few fresh pas­tas, and two meaty mains. It’s an ap­proach that works for those who like to share as well as for oth­ers who like the tra­di­tional starter-and­main ex­pe­ri­ence. Start with freshly shucked oys­ters or a zingy scal­lop crudo be­fore div­ing into the pil­lowy bread rolls served with whipped ba­con but­ter. Vegeta­bles shine in umami-filled small plates: a kale salad is down­right rich thanks to an im­pres­sive manchego-cheese-to-kale ra­tio. The squid-ink riga­toni makes it easy to see why folks sign up for pasta classes with Steve.

Drinks in­clude a nice se­lec­tion of wine (bub­bly pairs well with the bi­valves) and beer, along with chang­ing cock­tails.

A tow­er­ing Eton mess in sum­mer­time and a flam­ing baked Alaska in win­ter­time are dra­matic sweet fin­ishes.

Aside from sea­sonal vari­a­tions, the menu doesn’t change of­ten, but there’s com­fort in know­ing th­ese of­fer­ings will knock it out of the park ev­ery time.

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