ALLIUM

Being located around the corner from the Parkdale Market has proved useful for chef Arup Jana. Open since 2004, Allium’s farm-to-table philosophy supports local farmers by incorporating fresh ingredients in surprising ways. An order of Things on Toast, for example, comes out as an octopus-andshrimp tartine, the crispy lemon-scented French toast topped with braised and fried octopus, lemon, and thyme-marinated shrimp.

Seasonal ingredients also take centre stage in the popular mystery dishes: the Surprise Side and Surprise Main. As the names suggest, they truly are a mystery until they arrive at the table. My mystery starter — a smoked tequilacured salmon with thyme and compressed pear — offers a great combo of flavours and textures (silky-smooth salmon and a little crunch from the pear).

As you would expect from a kitchen that is based more or less on the seasons, the menu items change regularly, with the exception of their much beloved banoffee pie — a banana, toffee, and cream pie that screams excess and has gained such renown that it has secured a permanent place on the menu.

Not content with its dynamic seasonal menu or its Surprise offerings, Allium also reserves Monday nights for contemporary Canadian versions of tapas. Clearly Allium is restless, and yet through personable service, dim lighting, and dark wood accents, it presents a relaxed, even intimate atmosphere. Much like its namesake, the genus that includes onions and garlic, Allium has a lot of layers.