This Issue
When we set out to highlight the best new restaurants, we soon realized a strong trend: popular, locally owned establishments with small dining rooms, short menus featuring local products, and a casual ambience akin to a bakery or coffee shop. For some, these places might not be right for a special night out, and we felt it important to make a distinction between these restaurants and those that aspire to a more formal dining experience. But we could not ignore this trend, and so we set aside a few pages for The Casual Affairs (page 54), which follows our Where to Eat Now feature (page 39).
It’s worth pausing to consider the factors behind this trend. Maybe it happens to all cities of a certain size — does reaching the million-person mark mean the city can support high-quality casual dining? Perhaps it is because they are less expensive and the food is served up quickly that business is booming. In our busy day-to-day lives, these restaurants allow us to be spontaneous with our dining-out dollars and give us a healthier option to fast food — one that supports locally owned businesses.
And one more thing: these casual places are completely accepting of kids. I’ve tried it, as did our reviewer. I’ve seen accommodating servers and menus seemingly designed for children. Some 10 years ago, there was furor over a policy by a restaurateur in Old Ottawa South to ban children during dinner service. It was not part of the vision of the chef, went the story, and a crying infant would be disruptive to other guests who came for a specific experience that focused on high-end food in an upscale environment. Apparently a human-rights complaint ensued. I’ve always wanted to return to this subject, as it allows us to examine societal expectations. After all, there are other “disruptive” characters out there: I’ve sat beside them! How much of a guarantee can one get when heading out on the town? When we leave the privacy of our private homes, can’t we take on a bit of a risk? On the other hand, I do respect a restaurateur’s vision. And if I paid for a babysitter to escape my own screaming children, I would probably ask to be seated far away from a baby. Kids do take up more space with words and actions than the average diner, and as the restaurateur in 2010 noted, they usually aren’t contributing to the bottom line.
But if you’re really interested in food, there’s a desire to share that with your kids, and this is where high-quality casual restaurants come in. Perhaps go at lunchtime, and emphasize the respect that must be shown to the people who make and serve your food. That’s also part of the education. Many of the people behind these restaurants are more than happy to take a moment to connect with the future bakers, chefs, line cooks, and servers.