Penticton Herald

Lake Breeze menu ‘utterly delicious’

- SHELORA SHELDAN

It’s hard to resist the allure of Mediterran­ean cuisine. Think ripe heirloom tomatoes, sweet peppers, zucchini, fragrant basil and fruity olive oil. Add in some fresh cheeses, wine, seafood and lean proteins, and you have one of the world’s healthiest cuisines. (It was recently recognized by UNESCO as part of its intangible cultural heritage of humanity.)

These delectable components define the cuisines of Spain, Italy and Southern France, to name a few, and their influence is easily translatab­le to our South Okanagan table. You can call is traditiona­l food, real food or slow food, but at its heart, it’s simply food that is fresh and minimally processed.

On ewell-versed translator of Mediterran­ean meets-O kan ag an is chef Mark Ashton of the Patio Restaurant at Lake Breeze Winery on the Naramata Bench.

After French culinary school in 1992, Ashton enjoyed a star turn as executive chef at the famed Vancouver Italian restaurant Quattro on Fourth before furthering his culinary scope with travel through Italy, Spain and the French Riviera before settling in the Okanagan.

Ashton’s finely tuned menu reflects these influences while speaking to the Okanagan bounty, including herbs and vegetables from the winery’s onsite garden.

Most everything is made on site from the daily breads to rice crackers to goat yogurt, condiments and pastas. Ingredient­s are thoughtful­ly sourced: the seafood is Ocean Wise-certified and ethically raised meats are from B.C. champ Two Rivers.

The accessible lunch-only menu is divided into small plates, greens and mains.

For starters, dig in to the smoked trout salad. Held atop a dollop of creamy mascarpone, the moist and lightly smoked trout is presented with delicate additions of fennel, arugula, honey and pink grapefruit – a perfect summer dish. Elegant help destinatio­n. is crowned transport and understate­d, by the shards ingredient­s of this toasted wonderful to sour their rye opener final to broth Steamed of pernod, mussels basil, are tomato, plump garlic and perfect, and chilies. in a Mains provide sturdier respite such as the halibut pot pie – a buttery blend of leeks, oaked chardonnay, roasted fennel, halibut and tarragon presented in a French porcelain lion’s head bowl, with a lofty top of puff pastry – or the handmade pappardell­e pasta, supple and buoyant, served with house merguez sausage of lamb and pork belly and Moroccan spices, with grilled oyster mushrooms, tomato and creamed ricotta.

Ashton’s cooking doesn’t hit you over the head with flavours; it’s restrained and balanced, smart and confident, and utterly delicious. The setting is fitting too, with the winery’s Tuscan-Provencal buildings anchored by the stone-paved 80-seat al fresco patio. Sink into one of the French café chairs providing peek-a-boo views of the lake and mountains beyond, reminding chef Ashton of Lake Garda in Northern Italy. All menu items offer suggested pairings with the winery’s liquid assets, and service is gracious and informed. Ashton provides the best of both worlds at the Patio, transporti­ng your palate to another place while staying firmly rooted right here at home. No passport required. With fork and pen in hand, and a passion for culinary adventure, Shelora Sheldan, writer, cook and curious traveller, goes in search of the delectable.

 ?? SHELORA SHELDAN/Special to The Herald ?? Chef Mark Ashton of the Patio Restaurant at Lake Breeze Winery with the halibut pot pie.
SHELORA SHELDAN/Special to The Herald Chef Mark Ashton of the Patio Restaurant at Lake Breeze Winery with the halibut pot pie.
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