Wineries to Watch For With more than 560 wineries spread across the Willamette, there is no shortage of wines to taste. Here are some recommended wineries to watch for, along with a tasting note from each (and, yes, going beyond Pinot Noir).
GOODFELLOW FAMILY CELLARS WHISTLING RIDGE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2016, AVA RIBBON RIDGE ($60)
From Marcus Goodfellow’s renamed winery (née Matello Cellars) and reflective of his young children / future cellar rats. I’ve been tasting with Marcus for many years, and still firmly believe that he is one of America’s top winemakers. This 2016 Pinot Noir, from Ribbon Ridge AVA’s exceptional marine-sedimentary-soiled Whistling Ridge Vineyard is proof positive. According to Marcus, his “least favourite flavour in wine is dogma.” He seeks out special vineyards around the Willamette, forging strong bonds with the owners, and oversees all the growing for his 4,000-annual case production. This is dry-farmed, 20–30-year-old vine massal selection Pinot (6+ clones), 50 percent whole cluster and with 20 months in French oak (30 percent new). Black raspberry, streamlined and narrow, leads the finessed palate, baked with iris, white pepper, dried herbs and white pepper. Structural, but so finely so, with bamboo tannins suggesting, rather than shouting, framework. Acidity is lofty and tight, creating an energetic flow through the lingering finish. Drinking beautifully now, but Marcus’ wines age incredibly, so I recommend using patience.
THE EYRIE VINEYARDS OREGON PINOT BLANC 2016, AVA DUNDEE HILLS ($35)
This limited-edition bottling is of Pinot Blanc from Dundee’s iconic Eyrie Vineyards and Alsatian clones planted over 25 years ago, plus 1990 plantings, and fruit from the neighbouring Tukwila vineyard. Destemming and long, cool aging in stainless (11 months) gives a purity and depth of fruit rarely seen in oft-neglected Pinot Blanc. Yellow apple, orange blossom, white florals, melon and grapefruit pith are padded with fine lees work, textural and very complete. Acidity is finely threaded and nervy, and there’s a steady lick of anise on the finish, which is welcome and inviting.
MINIMUS GRÜNER VELTLINER 2017, AVA WILLAMETTE VALLEY ($45)
Minimus was created in 2011 by Chad Stock as a series of one-off experiments, and the line continues to be an incubator for and innovator of Oregon winemaking. They source from sustainable (and stricter) vineyards, and practice low-intervention, native fermentation, utilizing various vessels and working with numerous grapes and clones (many unique to this project). Opening with a bright, flinty flick, this GV was planted in 1977 in Vitae Springs Vineyard, high in the south Salem hills’ volcanic Jory soils, on own roots. It’s believed to be the oldest planting of GV in America. The wine was fermented and aged for nine months in stainless, preserving the purity and crisp fruit. Lemon and meadow herbs are scented with elderflower and kissed with flake salts that run the long, slender palate to a bright finish. Acidity is shining, balancing the gentle lees well. Lovely poise and balance in this 12.4-degree wine.
LINGUA FRANCA BUNKER HILL ESTATE CHARDONNAY 2016, AVA WILLAMETTE VALLEY ($55)
Though the spacious, simple Lingua Franca winemaking facility may be brand new, the men behind the project — Larry Stone, David Honig and Dominique Lafon — need little introduction in wine circles. Young Burgundian winemaker Thomas Savre is turning out masterful wines, making this new winery one to watch. The BHV Chardonnay is made with more than 20-year-old Clone 76 fruit grown on Nekia soils at an altitude of 700 feet in Salem, exposed to the cooling winds of the Van Duzer corridor. After a native ferment and natural settling, this wine went into 70 percent new oak puncheons for a year before light filtration and bottling. Flint lined and licked with wet stone, this structural wine amazes with its lightness of touch, and darting lemon, pear skin and verbena notes. Very impressive.
will keep you satiated and satisfied. Oh yeah, and you can grab many of Oregon’s top bottles from the shelf for your future picnic. Conveniently located in Dundee, mid-valley, plan on stopping here numerous times during your visit.
A quick 15 minutes farther down the road and you’ll be in the town of McMinnville, home of the annual International Pinot Noir Celebration. Book into Thistle, a tiny, unassuming 24-seat resto tucked just off the town’s main strip. Food and wine lovers have been flocking to Eric Bechard’s restaurant since it opened in 2009. A strong, unyielding commitment to local farmers and producers won them many fans from the start, and an authentic, ever-changing menu plus a deep, eclectic wine list have kept it fresh.
While Portland is stacked with trendy boutique hotels (I highly recommend booking into any in the Provenance Hotels group), the valley is thankfully much sleepier. Book ahead for one of the private and spacious vineyard suites at Dundee Hills’ Red Ridge Farms. One of the first family pioneers of grape growing in the area, they produce their own line of Durant Vineyards wines, while continuing to supply fruit to other vintners. Their property also is home to Oregon Olive Mill, one of the largest olive groves in Oregon. If you’re looking for a luxurious getaway, check into the Allison Inn & Spa, with 35 manicured acres and 85 sumptuous guestrooms with balconies and fireplaces. Jory, the resort’s restaurant, showcases hundreds of local labels. ×