TIME TO RELAX
We drive into Troo, an ancient village famous for troglodytes (cave dwellers). There are 12 families who still live — comfortably with hydro and TV — inside the limestone cliffs that once housed thousands.
We need a room for the night. The only cave B&B is full. Nearby, a long gate set into a high hedge might be a warning to gawkers, were it not for a small sign announcing, L’lle o Reflets B & B. We nervously press the bell. The gate begins to rumble along an ancient rail, revealing a riverfront estate that once held an operating mill.
Our host, a retired eccentric designer, has turned the old mansion into a themed bed and breakfast. We are assigned The Heron room — his latest peculiar creation encompassing the entire attic, stuffed to the gills with bird memorabilia.
We take a bottle of wine to the riverbank before heading up the hill to the only restaurant nearby. Two rosycheeked ladies in matching pink aprons greet us at the door. Pink plastic flowers. Pink plastic tablecloths. Pink flock wallpaper. Pink perfectly cooked steaks.
A motoring holiday is all about freedom and adventure. Taking unplanned turns. Stopping for the night when you are tired. Buying picnic goodies at a busy street market. Grabbing a decent bottle of Merlot for a couple of euros, as we do in Borgeuil where we also discover our first “Internet café” — a computer perched among the plumbing supplies in a hardware store. The French countryside does not brim with Internet connections, which may be a blessing or a curse.
We discover that the Loire Valley is more than just chateaux. It is surprisingly peaceful, with little traffic and sparsely populated picturesque villages where time stands still. It is about getting endlessly lost and discovering hidden gems that have survived many centuries of history. And it’s about buying fine wines and cheeses for a riverside picnic at a fraction of the cost back home.