Regina Leader-Post

A good meatloaf can set your toes to curling.

- By Renee Kohlman

There is magic in meatloaf.

If you’re shaking your head in disagreeme­nt, perhaps you haven’t had good meatloaf. One bite of a well-prepared meatloaf will make you sigh with happiness, and maybe even curl your toes. It’s happened to me. And if that doesn’t float your boat, then surely a grilled meatloaf sandwich the next day will.

Like the name suggests, meat is the star of the show here, so use the best you can find/afford. By combining beef and pork, you end up with a mix that has the great flavour of beef but an improved texture thanks to the fat from the pork.

Eggs contain a good amount of protein and fat, add flavour, richness, and moisture. They also help bind the meat together and get the loaf to set in a stable form without the need to overwork the meat. Milk adds moisture and fat, so we’ll add some of that too.

Breadcrumb­s, thought to only be used to extend the meat, are really quite important when it comes to the overall texture of the meatloaf. Not only do breadcrumb­s absorb and retain some moisture as the meatloaf cooks, they physically prevent the meat proteins from rubbing up too closely to one another, thus dramatical­ly increasing tenderness. Gotta love science!

Vegetables add flavour and moisture to the loaf, so I finely chopped or shredded them (a food processor works well, too) and sautéed them in a bit of a canola oil. Let them cool down before adding to the mix, along with fresh parsley, Worcesters­hire sauce, tomato paste, and mustard — both powdered and prepared. Salt, when added too soon, can toughen the meatloaf, so be sure to add it right at the very end of mixing.

I usually shape my loaf free-form style as I can’t be bothered to stuff it into a loaf pan. I also can’t be bothered to scrub stuck-on meat from a baking sheet either, so I always line it and a wire rack with foil, sculpting the loaf right on the foil-lined rack. I saw Martha Stewart do this once on TV, and she’s never wrong, right?

Baking the loaf this way ensures greater surface area for the glaze, and those coveted crispy bits.

The glaze — a tangy concoction of ingredient­s you have in the fridge and pantry — is added halfway through baking time, so it won’t burn but will ensure the loaf is nice and burnished. Once it’s baked, be sure to let the meatloaf sit, tented with foil, for about 15 minutes before slicing. Any sooner and all of those lovely juices will spew forth and make a mess on your cutting board, not to mention making your meatloaf a dry disaster. Patience is a virtue, and all that.

I love garlic mashed potatoes served on the side, along with some tasty roasted veg. Once I’ve devoured this plate, I’m already thinking about the leftover meatloaf sandwiches I’ll make the next day. Good bread, butter, grainy mustard, some aged cheddar, a thick slice of the meatloaf, gently warmed first. Grilled in a skillet with more butter, and glory be. That’s a sandwich. Simple, yet completely and utterly toe-curling good.

To make the glaze: Combine all of the ingredient­s in a small saucepan and simmer, whisking constantly, over medium heat for about 2 minutes. Set aside.

To make the meatloaf: Heat the canola oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it’s hot, stir in the onion, garlic, celery and carrot. Cook until the vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool.

In a large bowl, combine all of the meatloaf ingredient­s, as well as the cooled vegetables. Gently mix with your hands.

Preheat the oven to 350F. Line a baking sheet with foil. Line a wire rack with foil as well and place it on the baking sheet. Place the meatloaf mixture on the rack and shape into a loaf. Bake for 30 minutes, then evenly spread the glaze on top and bake for another 30-35 minutes until an instant read thermomete­r reads 160F (71 C). Remove from the oven and lightly tent with foil. Let stand for 15 minutes before slicing.

 ?? RENEE KOHLMAN PHOTO ?? Tomato glazed meatloaf
RENEE KOHLMAN PHOTO Tomato glazed meatloaf

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