MATERIAL WITNESS
Do your research to prevent irreparable damage to a cherished heirloom
Julia Brennan, founder of Caring for Textiles says you should never clean delicate heirloom fabrics in a washing machine. Gentleness is required when trying to preserve and protect special textiles or fragile fabrics. Opt for hand-washing whenever possible and when in doubt seek out professional cleaning services if your item holds monetary, esthetic, historic or sentimental value.
Q Is the delicate cycle on washing machines too rough for heirloom linens? Should you always hand wash, and do you have a favourite cleaner or soap to use?
A All machines are too rigorous on heirlooms, delicate items, and special textiles or garments. Hand-washing can be controlled and treats textiles gently. Use a gentle detergent without brighteners, bleaches, enzymes, boosters, etc. Often a surfactant called Orvus is used in these detergents. It is pretty mild and works well.
Q I have some very old lace table runners that have yellowed. Is there any method to safely whiten lace to its original colour?
A Cloth, lace and linens yellow and discolour with age. These stains and discolorations are sort of like “age spots.” Some we just have to learn to live with. Any coloured embroidery or other embellishment could bleed during cleaning. The discoloration may also indicate that the fabric/fibres are weakened, and therefore any cleaning needs to be done carefully. Don’t use bleaches, harsh chemicals or washing machines. Try a simple flat wet cleaning with mild detergent, then dry the item flat in sunshine for no more than 30 to 40 minutes. Sun does weaken fibres, but a short exposure will help brighten the wet linen.
Q Should you hand wash or dry-clean wool or cashmere knitwear?
A They certainly can be hand washed in cool water with a mild detergent and laid flat, blocked out to the shape you want. If a dye might bleed or there is a bad stain, consult an experienced dry-cleaner.
Q How can I preserve my 1960s jeans?
A Don’t wash them. Keep them out of the light and safely wrapped, and take them out only occasionally. Love them and wear them gently.
Q I have a very lightweight, sheer silk American flag with no hem. It was my father’s and is probably from the Second World War. What’s the best way to preserve or display it? It’s currently rolled in a tube.
A The flag could be mounted and framed and would look stunning. Or it can be safely stored in an archival cardboard flag storage box. If it is not too large, it can be rolled in a tube for long-term storage.
Q I have several old family quilts made by my great-grandmother, probably in the late 1800s or early 1900s. They are in good to excellent condition, but I don’t use them because I don’t want them to get damaged, and honestly they don’t fit into the style of my home. So they take up room in drawers, rolled inside acid-free paper. I struggle with what to do with them. Part of me wants to get rid of them. Is there a responsible and respectful way to do that?
A Why not contact the historical society or a local museum in her area of origin? You can provide family history and photos to accompany the quilts, and make a meaningful donation that will honour her. You can also invest in having them appraised and then decide if you want to consign them to a good antique or folk art gallery, or donate to a museum that collects and studies quilts of this period and type.
Q I have three quilts made by my great-grandmother circa 1920 and 1930. How do I clean and store them?
A Quilts are tricky because there are so many different materials and colours, stitching methods, and battings. I do not recommend trying to clean the quilts yourself. You can certainly vacuum them front and back carefully with a gentle-suction vacuum and/or shake them gently outside then air them in a shady location for a couple of hours. This is what our great-grandmothers and grandmothers did. For storage, try to place them in a clean, dry, cool location in your home. If you are using a trunk, chest or drawers, line it with cotton sheets to prevent wood acids from discolouring the quilts. Fold them gently and pad out the folds as best you can with acid-free tissue. Or store them in acid-free boxes, available from various archival and conservation supply companies. Check the stored quilts once or twice a year, especially during seasonal changes, for moisture or insects.
Q Do pheromone traps work to kill clothing moths? Are cedar or mothballs more useful to deter them?
A Yes, pheromone traps work, but they attract insects. If you don’t have an infestation, don’t use them. Many things deter insects, but few eliminate them. In general, cedar chips, clove sachets and lemongrass are deterrents but will not prevent an invasion. Mothballs are unhealthy and again are only a deterrent, so I don’t use them.
Q Are you still stumped on occasion with a garment or fabric, or have you seen it all?
A I’ve seen but a fraction. Often textiles come into my lab and pose a good challenge. This requires thoughtful consideration of different approaches to conservation treatment, testing, learning more about the piece or genre, and rethinking what is the most minimal and suitable method to apply. Often a perplexing textile takes weeks to mull over and may involve consulting with other conservators. That is what keeps the daily work alive, exciting and challenging. Knowing my professional limits is also key; I turn down projects that I do not feel I have the skills to address.
Q What typically causes a dark rusty stain on old linens? Or is it just the age of any stain that turns dark?
A Dark brown stains and a sort of “foxing” pattern of brown and dark yellow stains on fabrics are pretty common, and they happen when the cellulose breaks down and discolours. Wood or acidic paper or just the humid climate can also cause fabrics to splotch with brown stains. Rust stains are usually directly associated with a pin or metal component touching the fabric.