PILLOWY PULL-APART DINNER ROLLS

Makes: 24

■ 4 tbsp (60 ml) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, plus more for greasing the pan and melted for brushing

■ 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) whole milk

■ 1/4 cup (60 ml) sugar

■ 4 1/2 cups (1 L plus 125 ml) unbleached all-purpose flour

■ 2 1/4 tsp (11 ml) instant yeast (one 0.25-oz/7.5-g/packet)

■ 1 tsp (5 ml) kosher salt

■ 2 large eggs

1. Butter a 15-by-10-by-1-inch (38-by-25-by-2.5-cm) jelly roll pan, then line with parchment paper and butter the paper.

2. In a saucepan over medium heat, heat the butter, the milk and sugar to about 130 F (55 C) on an instant-read thermometer.

3. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together 2 cups (500 ml) of the flour, the yeast and salt on low speed just until combined.

4. Add the hot milk mixture and mix until combined and smooth, then mix on low speed for about 2 minutes, until a smooth, loose dough has formed. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rest for 10 minutes.

5. On low speed, add the eggs and mix until incorporated. Add the remaining 2 1/2 cups (625 ml) of flour and continue to mix for about 6 minutes.

6. At first, the dough will look ragged, but it will become smooth after several minutes of mixing. The dough will be soft and will pull away from the sides.

7. Using about 2 1/2 tbsp

(37.5 ml) of dough for each roll, shape each portion (lightly flour your palms between each shaping, if necessary) into a smooth 1 3/4-inch (4.5-cm) ball.

8. To encourage the best rise, try to form a “gluten cloak” by pulling the top of the dough down and around each ball before pinching and sealing around the bottom.

9. Place the rolls on the prepared pan, spacing them about 3/4 inch (2 cm) apart in four rows of six.

10. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise for 45 minutes. The rolls will look puffy and will almost be touching, but most of the rising will take place during baking.

11. About halfway into the rise, preheat the oven to 375 F (190 C) with a rack in the middle.

12. Bake the rolls for about 20 minutes until they are touching and fill the pan; they will turn golden brown.

13. Brush with the melted butter. Using a spatula, slide them onto a wire rack or serve directly from the pan, warm or at room temperature.

Note: The shaped dough needs 45 minutes to rise at room temperature. The rolls can be made 2 days in advance and stored in a plastic bag at room temperature. To serve, reheat the rolls, uncovered, in a 275-F (135-C) oven until warm, about 10 minutes.