EAST SIDE STYLES

The Broad­view Hotel’s glassed-in eatery is all about grown-up bar eats for cool cats

Richmond Hill Post - - Contents - All in­for­ma­tion is from the DineSafe web­site, City of Toronto Pub­lic Health’s Food Premises In­spec­tion and Dis­clo­sure Sys­tem, and the YorkSafe web­site, the Re­gional Mu­nic­i­pal­ity of York’s En­hanced Food Es­tab­lish­ment In­spec­tion and Dis­clo­sure Sys­tem.

THE BROAD­VIEW HOTEL

106 Broad­view Ave. 416-362-8439 the­broad­viewho­tel.ca RESTAU­RA­TEURS: Erik Joyal and chef John Si­nop­oli

SCENE: A swirl of both lo­cals and trav­ellers alike with a fond­ness for share­able food and views

SOUND: Tunes get live­lier as the week­end draws nigh. Think LCD Soundsys­tem, Cut Copy and… REC­OM­MENDED DISHES: Folks are rav­ing about the fried chicken, ca­cio e pepe arancini and salmon ce­viche

DRINKS: Well-named tip­ples like Becky with the Good Hair (vodka with or­ange and car­rot juice, co­conut wa­ter and all­spice syrup) PRICE: $60 for two OPEN: Daily 4 p.m. to close RESER­VA­TIONS: On­line Tak­ing an el­e­va­tor to the 7th floor to get to a restau­rant some­how feels glam­orous. The big red Ro­manesque Re­vival brick pile at the cor­ner of Queen and Broad­view is the su­per cool new/old Broad­view Hotel, and its rooftop resto/bar might have the best view in town.

The room is dark and noisy. Old­sters be­ware. Do all the women here ex­cept us have long straight blonde hair? If I go east of the Don River more of­ten, will I look like that af­ter a while? Will I be cool?

Be­cause I sure feel cool here. The rooftop is a glass cube with a glo­ri­ous view of down­town to the west. The ta­bles are dark mar­ble, the ban­quettes lush dark fab­ric di­vided by mar­ble ledges, the bar long and curvy.

Erik Joyal and John Si­nop­oli, who’ve opened sev­eral restos to­gether, are in charge of the food at the Broad­view, a project of Street­car Crowsnest, which put $26 mil­lion into a three-year reno of the old pile built in 1891 — now a bou­tique hotel with three restau­rant/bar spa­ces. Bye bye Jilly’s strip club, hello hip­sters. They’re call­ing it the Drake of the east end.

Joyal and Si­nop­oli re­cently opened the Gare de L’Est bistro in­side Crow’s The­atre; they did Iza­kaya and Ta­ble 17; they have HiLo bar and As­cari Enoteca. And now they also have the Mi­das touch. Funny how years of ex­pe­ri­ence and hard work bring luck. The Rooftop is jam-packed. The duo have sprin­kled star­dust east of the Don. I con­fess to lov­ing it. The food isn’t the least bit fancy. It’s grown-up bar food very well ex­e­cuted. Not too much of the deep-fried dreck that bars tend to fea­ture; best are sweet skinny frites that I could eat ev­ery day. And won’t. Self-con­trol has to count for some­thing.

Ev­ery­body in town is do­ing scal­lop ce­viche these days, to which I say: Bring it on! What could be sex­ier than a su­per-fresh raw scal­lop sliced and dressed in lime and chili with pick­led cu­cum­ber, crisped gar­lic, co­rian­der and white sweet potato? We’re also pretty ex­cited by the clove-scented jerk pork ribs served with un­usu­ally creamy corn bread. And wrap­ping up the minced lamb and beef ke­bab in a soft house-made pita with yo­gurt, pick­led car­rot spears and za’atar yo­gurt is a Mid­dle Eastern dream come true.

For dessert they do a kick-ass ice cream sand­wich — golden brown­i­estyle cook­ies sand­wich­ing house­made ice cream in straw­berry cheese­cake flavour.

Is this junk food? Bar food? A restau­rant? A bar? Or maybe a de­light­ful cross­over. And way more de­lec­ta­ble than the SUV van kind. Were this a decade ago, any­body old enough to vote would not seek out such a venue for din­ner. Din­ner — at least a qual­ity one — meant white table­cloths and tak­ing your coat and wait­ers in­tent on charming us slowly … and quiet. Big ta­bles, small cool quo­tient. But since that sort of resto pretty much went out with French food, my de­vice is to find ways to re­joice in the down­scale new model of se­ri­ous cook­ing. Take Hil­lary’s ad­vice: Chardon­nay helps.

YORK SAFE

Yazdi Pas­try, lo­cated at 13130 Yonge St., was found to have one of­fence dur­ing a Nov. 16 rou­tine in­spec­tion.

Golden Horse, lo­cated at 1480 Ma­jor Macken­zie Dr. E., was found to have one of­fence dur­ing a Nov. 15 rou­tine in­spec­tion.

Xi’an Favourite Food, lo­cated at 4300 Stee­les Ave. E., was found to have one of­fence dur­ing a Nov. 15 rou­tine in­spec­tion.

Yummy Sushi, lo­cated at 1480 Ma­jor Macken­zie Dr. E., was found to have three of­fences dur­ing a Nov. 7 rou­tine in­spec­tion.

Thai Basil, lo­cated at 1070 Ma­jor Macken­zie Dr., was found to have two of­fences dur­ing a Nov. 6 rou­tine in­spec­tion.

Brother’s Bak­ery, lo­cated at 7077 Kennedy Rd., was found to have one of­fence dur­ing a Nov. 2 rou­tine in­spec­tion.

DINE SAFE

Zen Q, lo­cated at 5437 Yonge St., re­ceived a con­di­tional pass fol­low­ing a Nov. 1 in­spec­tion. Of three in­frac­tions ob­served, two were con­sid­ered sig­nif­i­cant and one cru­cial in sever­ity. It passed a Nov. 2 rein­spec­tion.

The Boil Bar, lo­cated at 664 Yonge St., re­ceived a con­di­tional pass fol­low­ing a Nov. 7 in­spec­tion. Of six in­frac­tions ob­served, two were con­sid­ered mi­nor, three sig­nif­i­cant and one cru­cial in sever­ity. It passed a Nov. 9 rein­spec­tion.

Sabai Sabai, lo­cated at 81 Bloor St. E., re­ceived a con­di­tional pass fol­low­ing an Oct. 23 in­spec­tion. Of four in­frac­tions ob­served, one was con­sid­ered mi­nor and three sig­nif­i­cant in sever­ity. It passed an Oct. 25 rein­spec­tion.

Joanne Kates vis­its the cool Broad­view Hotel

Clock­wise from left: the rooftop space, the new menu’s salmon ce­viche, fried chicken with tamarind sauce

JOANNE KATES Joanne Kates trained at the Ecole Cor­don Bleu de Cui­sine in Paris. She has writ­ten ar­ti­cles for nu­mer­ous pub­li­ca­tions, in­clud­ing the New York Times, Maclean’s and Chate­laine.

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