IL COVO

Richmond Hill Post - - Chefs Pick T.o.’s Best Restaurant­s -

JUDGE DAVID LEE, PLANTA “I love what Ryan is do­ing there. It’s only go­ing to get bet­ter: some hon­est cook­ing, great flavours and in­gre­di­ents!”

POST CITY’S TAKE: In Ital­ian, Il Covo means “the meet­ing point,” and that’s what has this restau­rant is. Un­ob­tru­sive from the ex­te­rior, the space un­furls into a warm room. Chef Ryan Camp­bell and biz part­ner Giuseppe March­esini hopped over from Buca (where they were the first two em­ploy­ees!) with plenty of Ital­ian culi­nary knowl­edge. But rather than turn out fare from one re­gion of the Boot, the team has cho­sen to cy­cle through them all over the course of the year. At the start of 2019, Il Covo honed in on the cui­sine of the north; in May a central Italy ex­plo­ration begins; come fall, the food will segue to the south and the islands. Although the re­gional de­vo­tion per­me­ates all as­pects of the food and drink, there is still a local lean to the menu. Din­ers may en­counter an On­tario take on a sa­vory pie na­tive to Emilia-Ro­magna. The trad ver­sion matches spinach with egg and nut­meg, whereas the lo­cal­ized take swaps in braised wild sting­ing net­tles and wild ramps. For sweet, a Bavarese dessert is a crisp Ro­man pas­try stuffed with cus­tard, vanilla whipped cream and provin­cial rhubarb. Now this is how you travel the Boot. 585 Col­lege St.

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