Pollution can age your skin and make you look older

Skin specialists explore new source of premature aging and offer advice

It’s not exactly a secret that our skin tells our age and lifestyle habits.

But drinking lots of water, wearing sunscreen and doubling up on moisturizers may no longer be adequate to ward off signs of aging. So, what has changed?

In recent years, research on what’s called “environmental aggressors” such as air pollution has intensified.

“Not only do UVA/UVB cause sun damage, wrinkles and aging, but there is also mounting evidence that infrared A — infrared emits greater than 50 per cent of the sun’s electromagnetic spectrum — as well as pollution and particulate matter in the air can cause similar (damage),” says Dr. Frances Jang, a dermatologist and clinical associate with the University of British Columbia.

“A staggering 80 per cent of all signs of skin aging are due to environmental aggressors such as UV rays, pollution and smoke,” says Dr. Dendy Engelman, a consulting dermatologist for Elizabeth Arden.

“These elements can generate excess free radicals and oxidative stress in the skin, which can interfere with skin’s ability to produce collagen and elastin and retain moisture, resulting in accelerated signs of aging.”

The primary environmental aggressors include air pollution from household combustion devices, cars, factories, cigarette smoke and even forest fires, as well as particulate matter such as nitrogen dioxide and sulphur dioxide.

“I think (people) would be surprised at the level of pollution we experience on a daily basis, even outside of urban areas,” Dr. Engelman says.

“You may not think that you need to be protecting yourself from pollutant particles if you are living in a suburban or rural area, but it’s still important to check the Air Quality Index in your town.”

“While many of my patients are aware of damage from the sun, they often don’t realize the effect that pollution can have.”

“That number is growing, though. I’ve seen a significant rise in questions regarding the effects of pollution n the past year.”

Several beauty brands including Clarins and Elizabeth Arden have launched products — and even entire product ranges — that target environmental aggressors.

“It’s important to look for a multifunctional protection product that will not only protect you from sun exposure, but also from pollutant particles,” Dr. Engelman advises.

She recommends Elizabeth Arden’s PREVAGE City Smart, which combines 100 per cent mineralbased broad spectrum SPF 50 with “Anti-Pollution Technology,” a polymer technology that purportedly acts as a shield against pollutants.

Look for products with antioxidants to neutralize free radical damage and/or topical retinoid treatments to be added to your pre-bed beauty routine.

“A topical retinoid applied at bedtime is an important agent of our anti-aging armamentarium,” Dr. Ulmer, says. “Retinoids can help to ‘reset the clock’ by improving the appearance of photodamage including wrinkles, fine lines and pigmentation.”

In addition to topical products, dermatologists say many patients are opting for in-office procedures to repair damaged skin.

“There are multiple minimally invasive, safe and effective treatments available to help maintain a youthful appearance,” says Dr. Marcie Ulmer, a dermatologist at Pacific Dermaesthetics in Vancouver. “Approaches often include combined procedures to relax muscles (with) neuromodulators, restore volume and re-contour (with) injectable fillers and improve tightness, texture and tone of the skin (with) chemical peels, lasers such as Fraxel, PicoSure, light-source based devices such as IPL and radio-frequency devices such as Thermage.”

Whether you opt for topical, surgical or just plain old diet, exercise and “beauty sleep,” adopting the right regime is necessary to help reverse the signs of aging.

But if you think you’re noticing signs of aging, that doesn’t mean you have to live in fear of the air. Just be aware of the level of pollution — and work on being proactive when it comes to damage, dermatologists say

“The good news is that premature aging means the changes occurring in the skin are not due to the natural aging process and can be prevented,” Dr. Ulmer says. “I tell my patients of all ages that (now) is the right time to start properly caring for and protecting their skin.”