HEROES OF MENSWEAR
Tiger of Sweden’s menswear designer has had enough of track pants. And he’s doing something about it
Tiger of Sweden’s Andreas Gran thinks it’s time to reinvent the suit — and to stop following trends.
CONSIDER HENRIK Lundqvist and Alexander Skarsgard. One’s an NHL MVP, the other a Hollywood A-lister, but they have a couple things in common. First, they’re both exceptionally well dressed. Second, they’re both Swedish. According to Tiger of Sweden’s menswear designer Andreas Gran, that’s no coincidence.
“Swedish men have never been afraid of being seen as un-masculine just because they like to dress well,” he says. “I believe that since we are a very equal country, this is something that makes people dare to be themselves. It is really masculine to be yourself.”
Unlike his dashing compatriots, though, Gran prefers to stay out of the limelight. When asked what he’d like to be known for, he says, “To be known is not my drive. My drive is to make great products.” And this fall, he’s focused on getting men to dress up more.
“It’s time to get elegant again,” he says. “No more track pants.”
To find his fresh vision, Gran’s taken a page from the sartorial playbook of the 1960s, which, as far as he’s concerned, was menswear’s best era. The result is a collection with higher waistlines, wider lapels, and sharp shoulders, all of which, Gran says, “really enhance the male physique.” Other noticeable changes in this season’s collection are the jacket lengths (longer) and the trouser silhouettes (looser). The latter style was omnipresent on the fall runways as the pendulum swings back from the slim, short suits that have been the standard for years now. “The suit has looked the same for such a long time,” he says. “Let go of the low-cut pants.”
WHAT SHOULD EVERY MAN HAVE IN HIS WARDROBE?
A pair of well-tailored black wool pants, a good-quality white shirt; cashmere crew neck sweaters in navy, camel, and grey mélange; a black leather biker jacket; a perfect blazer; a car coat; a classic wool coat; and a pair of washed jeans.
WHAT’S ONE TREND YOU’RE TIRED OF?
I’m tired of trends in general. Wear classic, high-quality clothes and you’ll always look good.
WHAT DESIGNERS DO YOU MOST ADMIRE?
Raf Simons, Helmut Lang, and Miuccia Prada.
IF YOU WEREN’T A DESIGNER, WHAT WOULD YOU BE?
A psychologist, I think. Or I’d run a hotel or a restaurant.
WHO, LIVING OR DEAD, WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO DRESS?
Donald Duck needs a nice pair of pants!