Atlantic Canadian fish, South American flavours
Iwill never say anywhere else in the world boasts as rich a seafood culture as Atlantic Canada, but we are not alone in our reverence for the bounty of the sea. While in local culinary circles, outside of our own seafood classic dishes, we are more likely to talk about
Japan as a source of inspired seafoodbased cuisine, the continent of South America boasts a similar reverence to seafood as we do. Less Paraguay and Bolivia, every country in South America shares a border with either the Atlantic or Pacific Ocean. Like Atlantic Canada, seafood is part of the tapestry of South American cuisine. I recommend bridging North Atlantic seafood with South American flavours when looking for an inspired way to serve seafood at upcoming dinner party.
INSPIRED BY ECUADOR HALIBUT AND PASSION FRUIT CEVICHE
Ceviche, citrus cured fish, is popular throughout South America. In Ecuador, a fish often used is wahoo fish from the Galapagos Islands. Since wahoo is native to Hawaii, Caribbean and South America, I am using halibut in its place. As far as pairings, in the Ecuador you would be likely served a Miske Sour. This cocktail uses the local Miske spirit, a close relative to Tequila, but if I were making it a home, I’d suggest using Mezcal to give the cocktail a subtle smoky flavour.
4 Servings Ingredients (ceviche)
• ½ lb halibut, ¼-inch slices
• 1 lime, zest, juice
• 1/2 grapefruit, juice
• 1 tbsp red chili, finely diced
• 1 tsp garlic, minced
• 2 tbsp cilantro, finely chopped
• Extra virgin olive oil
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Sea salt
Ingredients (passion fruit sauce)
•
• 5 chilies
• 3 passion fruit, pulp, juice
• 1/3 cup neutral oil such as canola
• 1 lime, zest, juice
• ¼ cup cilantro, minced
• Salt to taste
Directions
Combine halibut with citrus zest and juice in a non-reactive bowl. Place in refrigerator and let marinate for 30 minutes. Drain liquid. Add chili, garlic, cilantro and drizzle of olive oil. Mix. Meanwhile make the sauce. Place chilies, passion fruit, oil, lime zest and juice in a blender. Blend until smooth. Add cilantro and salt to taste. To serve place halibut slices on a platter and top with passion fruit sauce.
INSPIRED BY PERU CHUPE DE LANGOSTA (LOBSTER CHOWDER)
4 to 6 Servings
In Peru, this recipe would be made with large shrimps. While our coldwater shrimp can be added for extra dimension and character, lobster will add more depth of flavour. Ingredients
• 2 1-¼ lb lobster, steamed, meat removed, shells reserved
• 1 1/2 litres water
• 1/3 cup butter
• 1 small onion, diced
• 1 red pepper, seeded, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tbsp tomato paste
• 1 large Yukon gold potato, peeled, diced
• 2 ears corn, cut into thirds
1 cup pea
• 2 tsp cayenne pepper
• Salt, to taste
Directions
Start by making a lobster stock. Place lobster shells, 3 cups of water, and 1 tablespoon sea salt in a pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and let simmer for 30 minutes. Strain and discard shells. Place butter in large, heavy pot set over medium-low heat. When butter has melted add the onion and peppers. Sweat until soft. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add tomato paste and sauté for another 2 minutes. Add flour and stir. Add remaining water, and the lobster stock, while whisking to incorporate the flour. Finally add the potatoes, corns, peas, and oregano. Bring to a boil and then reduce to simmer. Simmer for 15-20 minutes, or until potatoes are tender and corn cooked. Finish with reserved lobster meat, heavy cream, and cayenne. Season to taste with salt. Serve warm.
INSPIRED BY COLUMBIA COD FILETE CARTAGENERO
I was inspired by Columbian Filete Cartanego to create this dish featuring baked Atlantic cod served over titoté rice. Traditionally this would be made with sea bass or another local South American fish species.
Ingredients
• 2 cups coconut milk fresh or canned
• 1 cup long-grain rice
• 1 tsp salt
• 2 cups water
• 2 tbsp sugar
• ⅓ cup cilantro, chopped
• 4 6-ounce cod filets
• 3 tbsp butter, room temperature
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tbsp cilantro, finely chopped
• 1 lemon, very thinly sliced Directions
Preheat oven to 400 F. Start by making the rice. Place the coconut milk in a heavy sauce pan and cook over medium heat for about 30 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan occasionally to prevent the titoté from burning. Add the rice and cook, stirring frequently until well coated with the titoté for 1 minute. Add the water, salt and sugar. Bring to a boil, stirring once. Reduce the heat to low and simmer gently. Cover for about 20 minutes or until the rice is tender and the water absorbed. Remove from the heat and let it stand for 5 minutes. While lemon slices on bottom of baking dish. Top with cod fillets. Season with salt and pepper. In a bowl mix together the butter, olive oil, garlic and cilantro. Top each cod fillet with equal amounts of the butter mixture. Bake for 15 minutes. To serve place equal amounts of rice in four bowls. Top with cod fillets.
Mark Dewolf is currently the creative director of food and drink at the Saltwire Network, director of marketing and communications of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI) and past-president of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS). He enjoys drinking, eating, writing and talking about wine, beer and food.