A new take on authentic German cuisine
When restauranteur Nathan Guggenheimer bought the Old Black Forest Restaurant on Highway 3 near Mahone Bay in early February 2020, he looked forward to working with a new team of chefs, managers and business advisors. Their goal was to build the reputation of the new Old Black Forest Restaurant around authentic German cuisine and hard to find European beers and wines.
“The whole goal of this restaurant was to take the old German style restaurant and bring it up to the 2020s,” Guggenheimer said during a recent interview.
Unfortunately, pandemicrelated health restrictions derailed those plans for a time.
“We opened for three days and then we were shut down by COVID,” Guggenheimer said.
Guggenheimer and his staff turned a negative into a positive as they pivoted to create a new takeout menu featuring ramen noodle nights, vegan tastings and Japanese Izakaya dishes.
According to Guggenheimer, these special nights have become a biweekly event, sometimes selling out within hours of posting.
Since COVID health restrictions were lifted, diners looking forward to their favourite authentic German dishes, including schnitzel, bratwurst and käsespätzle, have returned to dine in the updated decor and on the large patio.
Chef Silvio Schatz, who grew up in a small village near Stuttgart in Southwestern Germany, designed the menu.
“Sometimes it's just the touch. I know how it should be,” Schatz said.
“I think I make a lot of people happy. Especially the people from Germany who live around here and who want to have German food that reminds them of home,” Schatz said.
Frauke Wenzel of Martin's River was born in the north of Germany, near Hanover. She and her husband operate the nearby River Ridge Lodge.
The couple enjoys the German fair at the new Old Black Forest, especially the schnitzel. They have recommended it to guests from their B&B as well.
“I have had a lot of schnitzel in North America and sometimes the schnitzel is not good. They do make quite good schnitzel there,” Wenzel said.
“Everybody is always really friendly there.”
WORK/LIFESTYLE BALANCE
Guggenheimer, or “Chef Googs” as he is known, grew up near Vancouver. After developing his culinary skills working under Michelinstarred chefs and owning restaurants in Western Canada, he eventually moved to Nova Scotia to work as director of culinary at Oak Island Resort before taking over the Old Black Forest Restaurant.
“All I did was work in big cities. And I just got over that rushed lifestyle,” Guggenheimer said.
Moving to the South Shore has helped Guggenheimer balance work and lifestyle.
“Moving here, I love the architecture, the old buildings, the history that is everywhere here. I love the sound of the ocean. And I love the fact that I am working with great people here at this little restaurant,” he said.
“I can go to a beach and it's not crowded. I can go on hikes. It seems like there is always something else to do recreationally,” Guggenheimer said. “Here I can take a break and in 10 minutes I am at a beach chilling for a little bit. And I can come back to work.”
“The community is what draws me,” he said. “Everyone is so friendly.”
Sous chef Dylan Dearing moved to the area in early 2020 from Montreal to work with Guggenheimer.
“It was my first senior chef position as well as doing things as a business owner as well. I wanted to get more involved in the business side,” Dearing said.
Dearing said he was ready for a change of pace after the fast pace of life in Montreal.
“I looked forward to being able to come out to a rural community where everyone is a little more relaxed. There is more to do amongst other people. I found that cathartic and relaxing,” Dearing said.
Sylvio Schatz worked for a traditional German restaurant in Germany to improve his skills in German cuisine before he and his wife, Lisa Leschhorn, who handles social media for Old Black Forest, moved to Canada in 2019.
“Germany is a completely different lifestyle. There are more people around, so not a lot of space to escape,” Schatz said.
“Lunenburg is quite beautiful if you have dogs, to go to the beach or go on a hike.”
“The whole goal of this restaurant was to take the old German style restaurant and bring it up to the 2020s.” Nathan Guggenheimer
Owner
PLANS TO EXPAND
Guggenehimer and his partners have also started a natural seltzer company, Brave Seltzer, made with Nova
Scotia products. He has plans to use solar power to improve energy efficiency in the restaurant kitchen.
Plans for future expansion do not stop there, however.
“One day there will be ebike rentals, an electric car charger, coffee spot, possibly accommodations, gardens, and other retail or provisions all around this little spot that is located directly across a large entrance to the Bay to Bay Trail. Each business supporting the other,” said Guggenheimer.
“We want to create this community hub for traveller's and for everyone living around us. Giving them something other than fish and chips to eat, providing exquisite service and consistently delicious food,” he said.
“There are big goals here and bigger hearts.”