Big flavours from below the surface

Some of the most exceptional autumnal flavors come from below the soil's surface.

When you opt for local root vegetables, you're in for a robust and earthy culinary experience that transcends mere side dish territory.

From the creamy earthy notes of celeriac (celery root) to the sweetness of butternut squash, there is a plethora of flavour waiting to be unearthed. Why not head down to your local farmers market pick out an array of these subterranean treasures? While you are cellar searching, so to speak, why not pick up a fine bottle of wine? Enjoy some recipes and wine selections to match.

Kohlrabi, Celeriac and Apple Remoulade

1 small kohlrabi, peeled, cut into matchsticks

1 small celeriac, peeled, cut into matchsticks

2 apples, cored, quartered, cut into matchsticks

2 tbsp apple cider vinegar

Pinch salt

4 tbsp mayonnaise

1 tbsp wholegrain mayonnaise

Pinch freshly cracked pepper 1 bunch dill, chopped

Direction: Combine kohlrabi, celeriac and apples with vinegar. Season with pinch salt. In a separate bowl, combine the mayonnaise and mustard. Finish by mixing in some freshly cracked pepper. Mix to combine. Combine the vegetable mixture with dressing and toss. Add the dill and toss again.

Butternut Squash Risotto

1 small butternut squash, peeled, cored, fine dice

2 tbsp olive oil

1 1/2 tbsp herbs de Provence 1 tbsp butter

1 litre vegetable (or chicken) stock 1 onion, diced

1 clove garlic, minced

1/4 cup white wine

1 1/3 cup arborio rice

1 cup Parmesan (Parmigianoreggiano)

Directions: Set oven to 400 F. Toss diced squash with one tablespoon olive oil and herbs. Roast for 20 minutes. Place stock in a pot and bring to a gentle simmer. Meanwhile, add remaining olive oil and butter to a pot set over mediumlow heat. Add the onion and sauté until soft and translucent. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant. Raise heat to medium. Add rice. Toast rice for two to three minutes, stirring to ensure the rice is covered in oil. Add white wine. When wine has been absorbed, add a ladle of warm stock. When stock has been absorbed, add another ladle of stock, repeating until stock is used. Add roasted squash and Parmesan with the final ladle of stock. Season

While root vegetables are most often boiled or roasted, they can also add depth of flavour and crunch to salads. MARK DEWOLF

to taste with salt and pepper.

Sweet Potato and Coconut Soup

6 Servings

2 tbsp butter

1 large onion diced

2 large sweet potato, peeled, cubed 1 clove garlic, minced

1-inch piece ginger, peeled, minced 4 Thai red chilies, finely chopped 2 473-ml cans coconut milk

1 cup sweetened desiccated coconut

Fresh herbs for garnish

Sour cream for garnish

Directions: Place sweet potatoes in a pot of salted water. Bring to a boil. Boil until tender (15 to 20 minutes) and then drain. Meanwhile, place butter and onion in a large pot set over medium-low heat. Sauté until onion is soft. Add the ginger, garlic, and Thai chilies. Sauté until fragrant (30 to 45 seconds). Add boiled sweet potato and coconut milk, desiccated coconut and enough water to just cover the sweet potato. Bring to a simmer. Let simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from heat. Serve warm, garnished with fresh herbs and sour cream.

Roasted Jerusalem Artichoke Chips and Artichoke Dip

4 to 6 Servings

1 lb Jerusalem artichokes (sun chokes), scrubbed, dried on paper towel, thinly sliced

3 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped

Pinch each salt and pepper

1 tbsp butter

1/2 lemon

2 cups grated Parmesan (Parmigiano-reggiano preferred)

1 14-oz can of artichokes, drained and chopped

1/2 red onion, finely sliced

1/3 cup mayonnaise.

Directions: Preheat oven to 425 F. Toss slices of Jerusalem artichokes with olive oil, rosemary, salt and pepper. Place on a parchment lined baking sheet. Place in oven and roast for 20 minutes, turning halfway, or until golden brown and crispy. Add butter to pan about two minutes prior to the finish of them baking. Drizzle with lemon juice after removing from oven. To make the warm dip, combine Parmesan, artichokes, red onion and mayonnaise. Place in oven safe baking dish. Bake for six to eight minutes. Serve chips with the warm dip.

TAKE THESE WINES OUT OF THE CELLAR FOR ROOT VEGETABLE PAIRINGS

• Barrel Fermented Chardonnay – Match the barrel fermented Chardonnay of places such as Burgundy with earthy root vegetable dishes such as celeriac and turnips. Opt for New World Chardonnay, such as those from California, with sweeter root vegetable dishes such as those made from sweet potatoes and butternut squash.

• Rioja Gran Reserva DOCA – The aged wines of Rioja have an earthy complexity and sumptuous palate that make them perfect for root vegetable dishes. Add some woodsy spices such as rosemary or thyme and mushrooms for a perfect pairing.

• Pinot Noir and Cru Beaujolais – Great Pinot Noir and top-class Beaujolais deliver earthy flavours without a lot of weight, making them perfect pairings for earthy vegetarian dishes. They go especially well with beet-based dishes.

Mark Dewolf, @drink_east, is a nationally recognized sommelier, creative director of Food & Drink at Saltwire Network, and leads food and wine tours to destinations around the world.