…It’s here that Chef Gordon Ramsey originally found fame…
Arriving in the bohemian West End district, I checked into One Devonshire Gardens Hotel du Vin & Bistro. This glamorous boutique hotel is comprised of four Edwardian townhouses, which retain original period features including stained glass windows, hand-carved wood panelling, ornate ceiling cornices and spectacular marble fireplaces. My top-floor suite featured a royal blue satintopped four-poster bed, cream and burgundy damask drapery, and a sumptuous marble bathroom.
It’s here that Gordon Ramsey originally found fame at what was then the Amarylis restaurant. During my visit, highlights of Chef Barry Duff’s Tasting Menu at the hotel’s eponymous bistro included a superb confit rabbit terrine garnished with sauternes gelêe, golden raisin purée and a delicate celeriac remoulade. A perfectly seared Gressingham duck breast was accompanied by luscious Pommes Anna and a sweetcorn purée. The cheese trolley offered a selection from Scotland’s famed fromagerie, George Mewes.
A few blocks away from the hotel is Glasgow’s lively West End. An eclectic array of cafés, tea rooms, bars, boutiques, clubs and restaurants resides amongst the gothic architecture of the University of Glasgow campus and the tranquil landscapes of Kelvingrove Park, with its notable art gallery and museum.
All this touring makes one ravenous. In the heart of the West End on busy Hyndland Road is Epicures of Hyndland Café and Restaurant, a vaulted room with vast windows and stylish décor. With a superb bakery, interesting sandwiches and a brunch menu, it’s a perfect location to capture a snippet of hipster West End life.
Approaching the Clyde River is the former docklands, where the luxury Cunard liners Queen Elizabeth 1-2 and Queen Mary were built during Glasgow’s shipbuilding heydey in the early 20th century. De-industrialization and economic decline in the 1960s created a vast wasteland of deserted dry-docks and warehouses. Since the millennium, the banks of the Clyde have been rejuvenated with new construction, including the spaceship-shaped SSE Hydro entertainment arena and the Clyde Auditorium, fondly known as The Armadillo, and the spectacular Riverside Museum designed by the late modern architect Zaha Hadid. The multi-award winning Riverside Museum is home to over 3,000 objects that detail Glasgow’s rich past, from its days as a maritime powerhouse to a glimpse of daily Glaswegian life in the early to mid 20th century.
Glasgow’s East End, once a major industrial centre, is home to the weekend Barrowland Market as well as innovative housing developments, including the 2014 Commonwealth Games athletes’ village. The city’s oldest park, Glasgow Green, established in the 15th century, has some iconic features, including the 160-year-old Nelson Monument and the Doulton Fountain located in front of the People’s Palace. Originally a cultural centre and conservatory, the Palace now houses the Museum of History.
The city centre is a hubbub of shopping streets and pedestrian malls. Cultural venues include the Glasgow Royal Concert Hall, The King’s Theatre, the School of Art, all surrounding he principle public square, George Square, and the Royal Exchange Square. A private walking tour with the Glasgow School of Art gave me a fascinating insight into this cultured city and the way it was designed and built.
The adjacent business area has been redeveloped with renovated architectural classics as well as some postmodern structures, including the recently opened Dakota Deluxe Hotel. Built by Glaswegian hotelier Ken McCulloch (who originally built One Devonshire Gardens), this former Works and Pension building has been transformed by his wife Amanda Rosa, a renowned interior designer. She’s created a fusion of exposed brickwork, wood beams and comfortable furnishings and fittings worthy of New York or Barcelona.
The Dakota’s Bar + Grill restaurant, set in an elegant basement, has alcove banquettes for intimate dinners as well as a private dining room. The menu features superb Scottish Angus steaks, lobster and langoustines simply cooked over hot coals and served with a variety of sauces from a béarnaise pungent with tarragon to a mild peppercorn sauce.
You cannot visit Scotland without sampling the whisky. I was never a true fan but after sampling several drams during this visit, my palate has changed. I had the chance to visit Glasgow Distillery, the first new urban distillery in the city for over 100 years. Founded in 2014 and drawing on the pioneering spirit of Scotland’s first licensed distillers, The Glasgow Distillery Company, producer of the award-winning Makar Gin and Prometheus Whisky, takes its name from one of the city’s original distilleries. Founded in 1770, it remained active until the beginning of the 20th century. Glasgow was home to hundreds of distilleries until the Depression and Prohibition led to their closure.
Renting a car and summoning enough nerve to drive on the right side, I skirted the large picturesque Loch Lomond, and on through dramatic mountains towards the scenic West Coast, the whisky town of Oban, and The
Airds Hotel & Restaurant in the remote town of Port Appin in the heart of the Scottish Highlands.
Arriving in the secluded village, just a short distance from Oban, I checked into one of the most charming boutique inns on the West Coast. Converted from an old ferry inn, this year-round oasis created by owners Shaun and Jenny McKivragan features plush, well-appointed bedrooms and cozy, comfortable lounges heated by carved wood and marble fireplaces. This beautiful Relais & Chateaux country house overlooks pretty floral gardens and a sloping green with a view of Loch Linnhe and the mountains of the Ardnamuchan Peninsula beyond.
The exceptional service, and the cuisine from a kitchen so far from urbanization, overwhelmed my expectations. Executive Chef Chris Stanley (who coincidentally last worked at One Devonshire Gardens), has created a magnificent farm-to-table repertoire with the region’s natural larder at his doorstep. Behind the inn, he grows an abundance of produce in a greenhouse, from an array of aromatic herbs and assorted berries to tender greens for salads and a variety of vegetables.
A first course of hot and cold smoked trout, broken down into thin slices and meaty shards with a delicate smokiness, paired with trout mousse and horseradish mayonnaise, was artistically presented on a piece of slate. Plump, briny scallops, quickly seared, accompanied hand-rolled linguine enrobed with a caviar butter sauce. Both were exquisite, but I was most enamored with a truffle-stuffed chicken breast and confit leg, set atop a creamy white bean purée adorned with golden discs of potato fondant and caramelized cauliflower. Chicken… somewhat pedestrian? Certainly not from this talented kitchen brigade!
The Airds, although remote, is set in one of the most spectacular locations I’ve encountered on my travels. It was worth the somewhat harrowing drive to thoroughly enjoy one of the best meals I experienced in 2016. I can’t wait for my next culinary expedition to Scotland!