Taste & Travel - - Contents -


DATE: Au­gust 2016

WEATHER: 31ºC and cloudy

TRAV­ELLERS: Peter Jo­hansen and Ox­ana Sawka


THE RUGGED ADIRON­DACK MOUN­TAINS are the largest pub­licly pro­tected area in Amer­ica’s Lower 48 states. Vis­i­tors have long hiked and fished in sum­mer, ad­mired au­tumn’s blaz­ing bo­real forests, and ca­vorted with snow and ice in win­ter ( post­card-per­fect Lake Placid has twice hosted the win­ter Olympics). For­tu­nately, the re­gion boasts great agri­tourism and din­ing, too. ADIRON­DACKS AL FRESCO

In the 'Dacks, you em­brace the out­doors. Pic­nic by the Aus­able River at Cedar Run Bak­ery and Mar­ket in Keene; its home­made treats in­clude black­berry lemon bread and cinnamon-spiced turkey and pep­per mous­saka. Then lick soft-serve Donnelly's Ice Cream (Saranac Lake). There's just one flavour each day, milked from cows graz­ing be­hind the tiny road­side stand www.cedar­run­bak­


Sur­rounded by moun­tains, the Keene Val­ley Farm­ers' Mar­ket is a lively Sun­day scene. Our top stall: Fledg­ing Crow veg­eta­bles, or­gan­i­cally grown by two mil­len­ni­als who met while vol­un­teer­ing in Ecuador. Other wor­thy ven­dors in­clude Hid-in-Pines, a farm­stead Lake Cham­plain win­ery; South Meadow Farm for maple prod­ucts; and Un­der­wood

Herbs, which also sells un­usual jel­lies. www.adiron­dack­farm­ers­mar­ket. com/keeneval­ley.html


At Sugar House Cream­ery in Up­per Jay, Alex Ea­ton and Margot Brooks raise a dozen Brown Swiss cows and churn the milk into a del­i­cate sur­face-ripened Lit­tle Dick­ens cheese that's been called “a rare rev­e­la­tion.” In Au Sable Forks, As­gaard Farm — once the pretty home of artist Rock­well Kent — pro­duces award-win­ning goat cheese, some flavoured with herbs from their own gar­den. www.sug­ar­house­cream­ery. com; as­gaard­


Thirsty? On Ra­que­tte River Brew­ing's pa­tio in Tup­per Lake, pair your mango wheat ale or salted caramel porter with brisket or a Rodeo Dog. Ful­ton Chain Craft Brew­ery (Old Forge) prides it­self on lo­cal sourc­ing: all its hops and most of its grain are New York grown. Ubu Ale, Lake Placid Pub's flag­ship brew, was a favourite of Bill Clin­ton's White House. For va­ri­ety, try Blue Line gin, in­fused with white pine sprouts per­son­ally har­vested by dis­tiller Mike McG­lynn of Lake Placid Spir­its. www.ra­que­t­teriver­brew­; www.fc­cbrew­; www.ubuale. com; www.lake­placid­spir­


Cor­don Bleu-trained chef Mark Hannon spe­cial­izes in lo­cal fare, from An­gus beef to amara, at rustic-chic Lake Placid Lodge, a Re­lais & Châteaux prop­erty with stun­ning views. He's backed by star mixol­o­gist Lori Kudel­ski. Sip her Barkeater cock­tail — maple in­fused, of course. At Bit­ters & Bones (Saranac Lake), a plaid-shirted waiter might perch on your ta­ble to take your or­der. Opt for house-made pick­led veg­gies and hand-chopped salmon atop lemon­in­fused faro. www.lake­placid­lodge. com; www.bit­ter­sand­

ADIRONDAC KS Lake Placid Lodge

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