A Provençal Trail
NATHAN FONG travels from Sisteron to St Remy de Provence.
THE FRENCH TGV intercity train is an integral part of Europe's rail network, connecting passengers to Brussels and London, west to the coastlines of Brittany, and east to the valleys of Champagne and the historic city of Strasbourg. But we're on the ParisLyon-Marseille line, heading to one of the most glorious regions in France… Provence.
This southeastern region extends from the lower Rhine River in the west, to the Italian border in the east and the Mediterranean Sea to the south. Having located the airport's convenient TGV Station below Terminal 2 at Charles De Gaulle airport, we boarded our quiet train compartment. Promptly at the departure time, the train left the terminus, moving smoothly on magnetic tracks (without any jerking from the coupling of
carriages), easing out of the Paris suburbs before hitting its breathtaking cruising speed of 300 kilometres an hour.
In Aix-en-Provence we picked up our car and drove to the region of Haute-Provence, set between the Alps and the Mediterranean. The charming town of Château-Arnoux, set on the right bank of the Durance River, is home to the Relais & Châteaux property, La Bonne Étape. This beautiful inn, formerly an 18th-century post house, has been run by the Gleize family for generations, welcoming travellers looking to enjoy the local surroundings as well a culinary experience in their Michelin-starred restaurant. Chef and Proprietor Jany Gleize reinvents some of the classic Provençal dishes made by his grandmother Gabrielle. Desserts, such as his famous lavender honey ice cream served in a honeycomb, are an ode to Jany's confectioner father Pierre.
La Bonne Étape has 18 unique rooms and suites, equipped with modern comforts and decorated with
…We tasted local olive oils and learned about the fine craft of making santon…
classic furnishings and antiques. Our top floor suite had a sweeping view of the inn's garden and pool terrace, along with the surrounding countryside and hills beyond.
Chef Gleize oversees two restaurants at the inn. The bistro, Au Goût du Jour, splashed in fresh Provençal colours, offers hearty regional cuisine, with a menu that changes daily based on what's available from the market or the inn's garden. The timber-beamed dining room houses the more formal Michelin-rated restaurant.
Breakfasts are a sunrise pleasure with an array of charcuterie, cheeses, fresh local and exotic fruits, and a selection of tempting viennoiseries. Our visit to the bistro revealed a short but wonderful menu of seasonal specialties, including fragrant Cavaillon melon paired with slices of aromatic cured ham, and a plump, seared duck breast garnished with panisse, the large, regional `French fry' made with chickpea flour.
But the standout was the celebration of renewed classics in the dining room. Thin slices of vitello tonnato (veal with tuna-caper sauce) crowned a colourful collection of juicy heirloom tomatoes. Flavourful lamb came from nearby Sisteron. A tender veal loin sat in a pool of intense, olive-infused reduction. Delicate stuffed zucchini blossoms atop an intense tomato purée and aubergine sauce could have changed me into a vegetarian.
As in the rest of France, there's a regular farmers' market in the area, and we headed out with Chef Gleize to discover what neighbouring Sisteron has to offer. Here we met generations of family farmers, producers of cheese, charcuterie, patissiers and various craftspeople. Sometimes called the Gateway to Provence because it is situated between two long mountain ranges, Sisteron is renowned for its steep citadel and 12thcentury cathedral.
Leaving the northern gateway we drove south to the ancient town of Vaison La Romaine, well known for its Roman ruins located on the valley floor, medieval town located higher on the rocky cliff and 11thcentury cathedral, not to mention a vibrant art scene. For wine lovers, it's also a hotspot for the famous vineyards of Gigondas, Beaume de Venise, Rasteau and Châteauneuf du Pape.
We stayed at the beautiful, contemporary guest house Patio des Vignes, hidden among the sloping vineyards of the town of
Ségueret. The lodging consists of two small houses (perfect for families) and a couple of comfortable guest rooms arranged around a lovely infinity pool, interconnected by a bright communal kitchen and social room.
Driving towards Vaison La Romaine, we stopped at Denis Voeux' Les 3 Souquets, where we tasted local olive oils and learned about the fine craft of making santon, the traditional Christmas village characters that can be found in all Provençal homes during the holiday season.
One of the most magnificent estate wineries we visited was the family-run La Verrière, with its Chêne Bleu wines, in the secluded valley of Crestet. This sprawling medieval priory has been meticulously restored by its new owners, Xavier and Nicole Rolet, who spent some 12 years researching the history of the abandoned structure and bringing it back to life as a spectacular bed and breakfast lodging, as well as a winery producing award-winning wines, made to organic and biodynamic principles.
Although I have visited Provence numerous times, I had never been to Avignon. After spending a couple days in this renowned medieval city, I can't wait until my next visit.
The huge Gothic Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes), was home to nine Sovereign Pontiffs in the 14th century, making the city a major political and spiritual capital of the western world and giving rise to a significant architectural heritage, which is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visitors can rent hightech `Histopads' that display visuals of what the various spaces, from the throne rooms to the banquet hall and kitchens, looked like during the period, enhanced with augmented reality. Evening brings the ancient walls to life with an impressive 360-degree light and sound show called Vibrations.
Les Halles is the busy covered daily market, with about 40 traders selling mainly local and seasonal products. Cuisine Centr'Halles is owned and operated by Californian Chef Jonathan Chiri. His menu rotates depending on what's fresh and in season in the market. Taking part in a morning market tour and cooking class, we learned to break down guinea fowl and serve it as confit, pan-roasted with a mélange of fresh chanterelles and arugula. Then, aromatic poached apricots with sweetened fromage blanc and one of my favourites — warm Madeleines.
Newly opened, Le Carré du Palais is a wine school, wine-bar and restaurant showcasing the Côtes-duRhône region, holding workshops, tastings and introductory classes for this important area.
From Avignon we headed south-east to one of the most picturesque villages in Provence, Lourmarin,
nestled in the middle of vineyards, olive groves and almond trees. Every Tuesday in the centre of this town local chefs feature seasonal products and give cooking demos at the farmers' market, La Fruitière Numérique.
One of the most memorable meals on this particular trip was at Numero 9, a small local restaurant in a touristy township. I had anticipated surly service, jovial noise and tightly packed tables with decent food — what I didn't expect was the courteous hospitality and superb cuisine of Patricia Munsch.
Our final destination in Provence was one of the most renowned regions, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Known primarily as the birthplace of the Renaissance scientist Nostradamus, and the place of medical internment for Vincent Van Gogh, the town is also famous for its narrow, tree-lined streets, fountains, chic boutiques and incredibly crowded farmers' market. Opened in 2015, the boutique Hôtel de Tourrel is a restored 17th
century mansion. Whites and beige tones in the spacious suites and restaurant convey modern simplicity, in contrast to the historic façade. The magnificent central stairway and high gothic archways are lit by a whimsical lighting feature made with the mansion's former organ pipes.
The hotel's rooftop terrace is magical at sunset, where you can sip a glass of local rosé overlooking tiled rooftops and the beautiful cathedral beyond. Its restaurant, just awarded a Michelin star this year, is one to watch. Young chef Jérémy Scalia is a master, using local, seasonal ingredients, enhancing them with contemporary and classical techniques, and creating truly beautiful plates.
Two local artisans are not to be missed. Since 1866, five generations have been producing candied or confit fruits at Pierre Lilamond's lovely shop. Entering, one is transported to a bygone era and kaleidoscope of coloured, candied fruit, from delicate perfumed strawberries and kumquats to show-stopping melons and pineapples.
And for chocoholics, there's the award-winning selection of chocolates at Joël Durand Chocolatier, uniquely categorized by letters of the alphabet.
It's been a couple decades since I last visited Provence and I realize how much I've missed this glorious region. Overall, time stands still here, but the people and cuisine continue to entice visitors, including me. Next time certainly sooner than later!