Roasted Marrowbones with Gremolata Crumbs
SERVES 2
COOKING IN THE EASTERN Townships reflects the influence of the British loyalists who arrived in the 18th century. Old-fashioned marrowbones are now back in favour — a rich and delicious treat.
Fresh Breadcrumbs 1 cup
Capers 1 Tbs, chopped
Lemon Zest 1 Tbs
Garlic 1 clove, minced
Fresh Thyme Leaves 1 tsp
Freshly Ground Black Pepper a few grinds
Butter 1 Tbs
Beef Marrow Bones 4
Sourdough or Rustic Bread toasted, for serving
Arugula or other Bitter Greens 2 cups
Coarse Salt to taste
1 PREHEAT the oven to 450°F.
2 PLACE the marrowbones in an ovenproof dish marrow side up and roast for about 15 minutes, until the marrow is bubbling and starting to render some fat. Don't over-cook or the marrow will melt.
3 WHILE the marrow is roasting, make the gremolata crumbs. In a small bowl, combine the breadcrumbs, capers, lemon zest, garlic, thyme and black pepper. Heat the butter in a small skillet until foaming then add the crumb mixture. Allow to sizzle, stirring occasionally, until the crumbs are golden brown, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
4 DIVIDE the cooked marrow bones between two plates, with the greens and toasts on the side. Pile some gremolata crumbs on top of the marrow and sprinkle the rest over the salad greens.
5 PROVIDE small knives or teaspoons for scooping out the marrow and a pinch pot of coarse salt for seasoning. Spread the marrow on the toast, season to taste with salt, and enjoy, preferably with a glass of crisp white wine!
More happiness on discovering that Laiterie de
Coaticook just down the road was still open — at 11 pm. Coaticook Creamery makes old-fashioned ice cream without any nasty ingredients. If you've never tasted apple ice cream, take it from me — you need to!
Some 3 million litres of Coaticook milk are used each year by the monks at Abbaye Saint-Benoît-du
Lac to produce their award-winning cheeses. The small monastic retreat established in 1912 by a group of Benedictine monks from France, is now a magnificent example of modern ecclesiastical architecture, with spectacular views over Lac Memphremagog. A visit to the abbey is an opportunity to witness services in Gregorian Chant, and to buy the brothers' cheese, apple sauce and cider from their expansive gift store.
The Victorian village of Knowlton is famously picturesque. The Brome County Museum displays artifacts dating back to the arrival of Anglophone settlers from New England and Vermont at the close of the 18th century. In more recent times, best-selling crime novelist Louise Penny has put Knowlton on the map by making it the setting for her murder mysteries featuring Chief Inspector Gamache. You can pick up a signed copy of her work at Brome Lake Books in the heart of the village, along with Gamache's favourite, a licorice pipe.
Knowlton is also the headquarters of Brome Lake Ducks and their products feature proudly on local menus. Le Relais Restaurant et Bistro, attached to t he Eastern Townships' oldest inn ( Auberge Knowlton, 1849) serves a knockout duck burger, and a duck confit flatbread with figs, roasted garlic and blue cheese. Local beers (the Townships boast no less than 19 microbreweries) and wines from local vineyards round out a menu that celebrates contemporary Townships cuisine. My last stop on this road trip was at Domaine
Château Bromont Hotel and Spa, a sprawling fourseason resort at the base of Mount Bromont, just over an hour by road from Montreal. Les Quatre Canards is the resort's fine-dining restaurant, all old-school elegance, deferential service and classical haute cuisine with a regional focus. I ordered the Guinea fowl, which was braised with girolle mushrooms and sage, with a spicy squash purée, baby pattypan squash and carrots on the side. To drink, an oaky Sevyel Vidal from L'Orpailleur, second oldest vineyard in the region, chosen in consultation with a friendly, knowledgeable sommelier. A classic crème brûlée was the sweet bookend to a delightful ramble through one of the prettiest — and tastiest — parts of Canada.
Manoir du Lac William www.manoirdulac.com Carrefour de l'Érable/Délices www.erable.ca www.deliceserableetcie.com Fromagerie du Presbytère www.fromageriedupresbytere.com Parc Marie-Victorin www.parcmarievictorin.com Village Québeçois d'Anton www.villagequebecois.com Rose Drummond www.rose.ca Auberge Handfield www.aubergehandfield.com Fort- Chambly National Historic Site www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/qc/fortchambly/index Ferme Guyon www.fermeguyon.com Le Fruit Defendu Restaurant and Gite www.lefruitdefendu.ca Michel Jodoin Cider House www.micheljodoin.ca Auberge West Brome www.awb.ca Musée du Chocolat www.lemuseeduchocolatdelaconfiseriebromont.com Les Trois Grâces www.bistrolestroisgraces.com Vignoble le Cep d'Argent www.cepdargent.com Coaticook Gorge/Foresta Lumina www.gorgedecoaticook.qc.ca Coaticook Creamery www.laiteriedecoaticook.com Auberge Knowlton www.aubergeknowlton.ca Domaine Château Bromont www.chateaubromont.com