De Oude Kraal
SOUTH AFRICA'S early immigration history mirrors that of North America, when early European settlers worked the land and learned how to make use of the natural resources around them. In different regions of North America, German, Irish, Dutch, Scandinavian and other groups not only shaped the future of the economy but also the recipe books of future generations. The same holds true in South Africa. The Afrikaner (descended from the Dutch) imprint is particularly strong, from the Free State and Bloemfontein area to Cape Town's winelands,, and there are touches of tradition from the British, such as afternoon tea with a plush assortment of cakes and cookies.
Although the British and Afrikaner factions clashed during the Boer War between 1899 and 1902, traditions and recipes from each side peacefully coexist and move forward at De Oude Kraal Country Estate. The sixth-generation Merino sheep farm located an hour outside Bloemfontein has been reinvented as a resort that introduces visitors to a slice of South Africa beyond the cities, safari camps and coastal highways. It encompasses the original 1885 farmhouse, decorated in eclectic and elegant fashion, with two restaurants (Feast, for casual and a la carte dining, and De Oude Kraal Fine Dining); a delightful spa with its own dining area; horse stables and several old barn structures and newer buildings worked into different lodgings. There is also a cute shop selling a variety of wool toys and housewares adjoining Feast.
As the grounds are beautifully landscaped it's tempting to spend the day lounging under a large tree. The resort also offers outdoor activities for guests and day trippers that provide a taste of the Free State's quiet agricultural lifestyle. These include interaction with the farm's dogs and horses, Sunday Braais (South African barbecues, which started in response to local restaurants being closed under the area's “Blue Laws” restricting Sunday activities), luxuriant treatments and massages at the spa. The resort's signature is a light game drive, for a relaxing sundowner cocktail hour or a variation for families with kids who may be a bit young for full-on safaris. Ostrich, sheep, springbok and other wildlife can be seen grazing in the grasslands.
Fourth-generation proprietors Gerhard and Marie Lombard, who grew up on the farm, lovingly maintain the original farmhouse, built by a German missionary named Saltzmann and expanded by family patriarch Judge A.J. Smit. It charms with separate dining rooms, some with open fireplaces and original antique furniture, and pieces from the owners' art collection. A five-course degustation dinner prepared by Marie's daughter, Marie-Louise Nel, is a hallmark of the establishment.
After working for several years as an attorney, MarieLouise, who also grew up on the farm and picked up the culinary fundamentals from her mother, returned to the family business in 2016 to transform the resort's food program while remaining true to Free State country cooking traditions as well as those deriving from the property's years as a sheep farm. There are French and global techniques at play — gourmet lamb burgers are elevated with parmesan, cilantro, and a mozzarella stuffing; a zesty tomato jam adds sass to wood-fired pizza and slow-braised lamb neck.
The menu reflects what's in season and helps support other businesses in the area. The process is also enhanced by the involvement of the farm staff, some of whose families have worked with the Lombards for four generations. The meal presented to us on a mid-fall evening (May in the Southern Hemisphere) began with a fine ostrich carpaccio graced with dried peaches and avocado. This was followed by a rich corn soup, and pasta with basil pesto citrus butter, pecans and pepperdew chiles. A haik fish course and thinly sliced lamb rounded out the meal, with a deconstructed lemon meringue pie providing the all-important sweet coda. A wine list of 125 bottles offers many options for pairings, or a glass in the bar area. Nel's cuisine truly merits its recent American Express/AMEX dining award.