Grad Night

The way to go traditional without going stodgy or touristy is at Bistro Grad Hometown Food, noted for its reasonably priced Balkan and Mediterranean plates.

Most dishes are generous and based on `grandma's recipes,' but you could imagine that matriarch being cool and tuned in to the younger generation. There's also an art gallery, lounge area, and plenty of homespun rakija and craft beer. www.bistrograd.rs