Taste & Travel

Halloumi Mint Scones

- Christina Loucas Adapted from Cyprus Cuisine by Christina Loucas © 2021 Whitecap Books.

IN MY IMAGINARY BAKERY, these scones play a starring role. They are loved by everyone who tries them. This is perhaps one of my favourite modern Cypriot recipes — it uses the traditiona­l Cypriot combinatio­n of mint and halloumi, which is found in a few of the traditiona­l breads in Cyprus. This recipe, however, adopts a scone base, which I find easier and quicker to make. Same taste, just a bit faster. They make great breakfast scones and are best enjoyed when hot. If there are any leftover the next day, I usually heat them up in the oven, wrapped in tinfoil.

All-Purpose Flour 2 cups

Baking Powder 1 Tbs

Cold Salted Butter 1/2 cup, chopped into small pieces

Cubed Halloumi Pieces 1 cup

Chopped Fresh Mint

¼ cup

Egg 1 large, lightly beaten

Buttermilk 2⁄3 cup

1 PREHEAT oven to 400°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2 IN a bowl, whisk together the flour and baking powder. Rub the butter into the flour mixture using your fingers to create a coarse meal.

3 ADD the halloumi and mint to the flour mixture and loosely mix together.

4 MIX the egg and buttermilk together and add to the flour mixture. Use your hands to create a soft, slightly sticky but still workable dough. Add a little more flour if necessary to get this texture. Do not overwork the dough.

5 FORM 6 to 7 equally sized free-form scones and place them on the baking sheet. Flour your hands if the dough is sticky. Bake for 20 minutes until golden brown. town on the southern coast, Michelin-starred chef Andréas Mavrommati­s harnesses the sweetness of Commandari­a in an appetizer of duck foie gras. In 2018 Mavrommati­s won the first Michelin star awarded for creative Greek and Cypriot cuisine, challengin­g the notion that these culinary traditions were inherently unsophisti­cated.

But as modernizat­ion comes to Cyprus, some age-old skills are being lost. Christina Loucas, the Vancouverb­ased author of Cyprus Cuisine describes visiting her grandmothe­r's village as a child: “Amargeti is a typical Cypriot mountain village — cactus pears grow along the road, grape vines swirl around your head. In the past, my grandma's homemade halloumi would hang from the corners of her house and old, unmarked glass bottles of homemade lemon squash would line the inside of her refrigerat­or, waiting to greet visitors. Olive and lemon trees always stood heavy with fruit, just as they probably had for hundreds of years.”

In subsequent visits, however, things began to change. Her grandmothe­r was no longer making halloumi, her aunt who made her own orange blossom water passed away. There were fewer and fewer foods being made at home. Wanting to preserve recipes before they were lost to time, Loucas made the decision to drop her legal career in the UK and move to Cyprus, where she started a blog documentin­g the traditiona­l cuisine of Cyprus and interpreti­ng it for the modern kitchen.

Until we can all travel again, here are some recipes from Loucas and Theo Michaels that will bring a taste of Cyprus sunshine into your kitchen.

 ??  ?? Winter fruit. THIS PHOTO
Winter fruit. THIS PHOTO

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