Éryngi no Sanshō Yaki

(Grilled Éryngi Mushrooms with Sanshō Pepper)

THIS DISH can be made two ways: by searing the mushrooms in a skillet or griddle pan or by roasting the mushrooms over a grill. In either case, trim the bottom of the mushroom stems to remove any gritty material using whittling strokes of your knife (as though you were sharpening a pencil). It is best to keep the mushrooms whole, even if thick or large, to prevent them from drying out as they cook. Figure on 2 large mushrooms (about 60 grams or 2 ounces) per person for an appetizer-sized portion.

Searing the mushrooms in a skillet or on a flat griddle: Choose a skillet or griddle pan than can accommodate your mushrooms laid out in a snug row, alternating cap and stem ends. Drizzle in a few drops of aromatic sesame oil before setting the skillet/pan over medium-high heat. When the pan begins to sizzle, press the mushrooms with the back of a broad, flat spatula to apply even pressure and trap in the juices. The Japanese use an otoshi-buta —a flat wooden lid that sits directly on the food, not the rim of the pan

— to accomplish this. Sear for 1 minute or until highly aromatic and the mushrooms are lightly coloured. Turn the mushrooms over and repeat the pressure-applied searing for another minute. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt then add a splash of saké to deglaze the pan. In a small cup mix 2 teaspoons soy sauce with 3 teaspoons

mirin. Pour this mixture into the skillet from the outer rim in a circular motion. Jiggling the skillet, allow the mixture to lightly glaze the mushrooms. Do not let the mixture scorch. Remove the skillet from the stove and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon kona-zanshō

(powdered fragrant pepper). Serve hot, or allow the mushrooms to cool in the skillet and serve at room temperature.

Roasting the mushrooms over a grill: Use a flat wire grill basket (the kind used for outdoor barbeques) and arrange the mushrooms in a single flat layer alternating cap and stem ends. Lightly brush the top surface of the mushrooms with aromatic sesame oil and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Secure the lid of the basket (most snap shut or can be clipped closed) and place over a hot grill with the oiled-and-salted side to the source of heat. Grill for 2 or 3 minutes or until highly aromatic and the mushrooms are lightly coloured. Flip the grill basket and continue to apply heat for another minute (no need to oil this other side).

In a small cup mix 2 teaspoons soy sauce with 3 teaspoons

mirin. Brush this mixture over the mushrooms; flip and brush the other side. Grill for another minute or until aromatic and lightly coloured. Remove the grill basket from the heat and sprinkle the mushrooms with 1/2 teaspoon kona-zanshō (powdered fragrant pepper). Serve hot, or allow the mushrooms to cool in the basket and serve at room temperature.