The Chronicle Herald (Provincial)
Butsidnaelsbsay rolls in
N.S. appellation springs to forefront for 14 wineries
Simon Rafuse says there’s no mystery as to why more and more Nova Scotia wineries produce Tidal Bay wines and more and more people drink them.
“They’re good because they’re made from grapes that do really well here, and they’re made in a specific way that accentuates the attributes of our vineyards and our province,” said Rafuse, the winemaker at Blomidon Vineyard.
This year, 14 wineries are producing a Tidal Bay, Nova Scotia’s appellation wine. (Appellation means a wine produced by numerous wineries within agreed upon parameters. Think prosecco, for example.)
“To have an industry-led effort, an appellation such as Tidal Bay, is unique in North America,” said Haley Brown, executive director of Wine Growers Nova Scotia. “We’re very proud of it.” The first Tidal Bays were released by six wineries from the 2010 vintage. From the first year, the wines have had to be approved by an independent tasting panel in a blind taste test before the label can go on.
“The independent tasting panels start in December and the last one tends to be in March,” said Brown.
“This year was an incredible vintage and a lot of them were submitted in December. I think there were two that were rejected out of the 14 submissions, and they were resubmitted at a later date and approved.”
At Blomidon, Tidal Bay is one of the winery’s top two sellers. Rafuse doesn’t try to make it exactly the same each year but does aim for “seasonal consistency.”
“We’re happy to let the vintage dictate it a little but the blend has been the same since inception; the percentages change a little bit, depending on how it turns out,” he said.
“But our Tidal Bay is pretty consistent year to year, a blend of Seyval Blanc, L’acadie Blanc and New York Muscat.
“We pick specifically for it. In a growing season typically what will happen, our sparkling stuff comes in first and then we move right into Tidal Bay. It’s not like we make a whole bunch of wine and then blend something together at the end, it’s made with intention from the vineyard.”
Sales of Tidal Bay increased by 40 per cent from 2020 to 2021, and a new wrinkle this year aims to grow sales even more.
“We’ve decided as an industry to allow the canning of Tidal Bay, so there’ll be an official launch this year with the 250 millilitre format . . . which is more accessible for people who want to try different Tidal Bays,” Brown said.
“From an environmental standpoint it’s great and provides consumers another option to enjoy Nova Scotia wine.”
Luckett Vineyards, Benjamin Bridge, Lightfoot & Wolfville, Avondale Sky, Grand Pre, Jost, Gaspereau and Mercator will offer the wine in cans.
Another change will see Tidal Bay’s annual launch held at venues across the province over several days instead of at one large gathering in a Halifax hotel.
“We still felt that people wanted to be careful, and there’s still some hesitation out there about large group gatherings, especially indoors,” said Brown.
“We’re an agriculture product but we’re also very much in the tourism industry as well, and we want people to enjoy wine country, come out to visit the wineries. So, we thought it would be a good opportunity to pivot and build something throughout wine country, enjoy the food, enjoy the wine culture.”
The Grand Banker restaurant in Lunenburg will host a Tidal Bay event, as will several wineries, and Ambassatours will offer it to passengers on its harbour cruises.
Wine Growers Nova Scotia has been invited to take part in a U.S. conference in July on establishing an appellation. Conde Nast Traveller recently showcased Nova Scotia wines, and three wineries — Benjamin Bridge, Lightfoot& Wolfville and Blomidon — are going to the U.K. next month to take part in a Canada House event, with at least one of them bringing along its Tidal Bay.