Brighter and fresher at Mission Hill
While swirling some 2016 Terroir Collection Viognier ($30) in his glass, winemaker Darryl Brooker declares Mission Hill Winery’s new ethos brighter and fresher.
“We’re in the midst of a significant change here at Mission Hill,” said Brooker in his Aussie accent.
“Both the wines and the food (on the alfresco Terrace restaurant) are brighter and fresher. It’s the way the world’s palate is going and we’re at the head of the trend.”
The West Kelowna winery has always been at the forefront of the Okanagan industry with a showpiece hilltop winery, award-winning wines and a restaurant deemed one of the five best in the world by Travel+Leisure magazine.
The changes in the latest releases of wine and on the Terrace menu are in keeping with Mission Hill’s style, but also make it more contemporary.
For instance, the 2016 Terroir Series rose ($30) our group tasted first is light and French-inspired, which is all the rage now in pink wines.
The Viognier, for the first time, has been aged in a combination of big concrete eggs, neutral-oak barrels and stainless-steel tanks.
The addition of concrete allows wine to breath as it matures and imparts more lively fruit, structure, texture and intensity.
“Few people know about Viognier,” said Brooker.
“But when they try it and get a taste of the deep, rich texture, but still aromatic wine, it immediately becomes one of their favourite varietals.”
For the first time, the 2015 Perpetua Chardonnay ($50) received some concrete treatment and the result is a wine with more vibrancy, lift and acidity.
It paired beautifully with the catch of the day seared scallops at lunch on the Terrace.
Other main courses include linguine with wild shrimp, chicken breast roasted on the bone and a brisket burger with frites.
Also new this summer are more privileges for members of the Privilege Club.
Besides regular shipments of Mission Hill wines, including the exclusive Terrior Collection wines and flagship Bordeaux-style red Oculus, club members can have one-on-one time with a sommelier in the private tasting room and use the private living room and dining room.
Tours and experiences have also been amped up.
They range from a 45-minute winery tour for $17 through the barrel cellar and private tasting to an $895 Appellation Exloration, which includes a helicopter ride from the West Kelowna winery to Mission Hill’s vineyards in Oliver for a tour and five-course wine-paired lunch.
They’ll learn how to create Neo-Fjordic specialties such as crab salad with pine spruce, venison with kale, scallops with salted plum, clam with shiitake mushrooms, crispy pigs ear and different ways to prepare whale meat, cod and oysters.
While such dishes may not show up on Kelowna menus, the philosophy and techniques of sourcing local produce and sustainable seafood and meats are excellent transferable skills for any chef.
The visit came about very informally.
Canadian singer Caitlin Simpson, who uses the stage name Kinny, lived in Norway for 15 years and is a friend of fellow musician Fredrik Saroea, a co-owner of Lysverket.
Simpson moved to Kelowna three years ago to be close to her mom and younger brother and sister and eats out a lots, which is how she met Brisley and Royer.
Simpson suggested they jet off to Norway for a fortnight to be mentored by the edgy chef.
Haatuft’s wife’s sister works at Hotel Oleana in Bergen and the hotel offered to sponsor the two Kelowna sous chefs and put them up during their stay.