From Slo­vakia to Oliver

The Daily Courier - - WINE & DINE - STEVE MacNAULL

At Oliver’s Wine­maker’s Cut, Michal Mosny is craft­ing wine be­cause it’s his pas­sion, not to make money. “Well, it would be nice to make money one day,” said Mosny with a laugh.

“But right now we’re small-scale wine, so I think we might be break­ing even.”

Luck­ily, Mosny has a day job at Lunessence Win­ery in Sum­mer­land to pay the bills. (More on Lunessence in the next item.) So, at Wine­maker’s Cut, Mosny does only what he wants, when he wants.

That means just two wines right now, a cherry-plum-fig-pep­per-ba­con-and-vanilla 2016 Syrah ($32) and a 2017 Sau­vi­gnon Blanc ($25) that smells and tastes like goose­berry-pineap­ple-lemon New Zealand and Chile Sauv Blanc via France.

Both of the wines have spent some time in Slo­vakian oak bar­rels, a nod to Mosny and his wife, Martina, hail­ing from Slo­vakia.

For the Sauv Blanc, only 20 per cent was aged in used, neu­tral bar­rels, so the wine gained some tex­ture, but no oak aro­mas or flavours.

For the Syrah, the com­bi­na­tion of Slo­vakian, Amer­i­can and French oak re­sults in those sub­tle toasty and vanilla notes.

Mosny was work­ing at Slo­vakia’s largest sparkling wine house, Hu­bert J.E., and his wife was a school teacher, when they saw a doc­u­men­tary on the world’s lit­tle-known wine re­gions.

The film men­tioned Nk’Mip Win­ery in Osoy­oos and the cou­ple was in­trigued, so much so they sub­mit­ted im­mi­gra­tion papers and moved to the Okana­gan in 2011.

Mosny started up his own wine­mak­ing con­sult­ing firm GAGW, which stands aptly for good at­ti­tude, good wine.

One of his first clients was Lunessence Win­ery in Sum­mer­land, which be­came a full-time gig.

Wine­maker’s Cut may be a side project, but one he’s very se­ri­ous about.

Dead­man Lake Vine­yard in Oliver, where all of Wine­maker’s Cut grapes are grown, has a warm mi­cro cli­mate and min­eral-rich soil and is farmed with zero pes­ti­cides, zero her­bi­cides and zero ar­ti­fi­cial fer­til­izer.

The name Wine­maker’s Cut is a riff on moviemak­ing’s director’s cut, where a spe­cial edited ver­sion of the film rep­re­sents the director’s unique point of view.

Mosny’s cut is mak­ing wine gen­tly from sus­tain­ably farmed grapes with ex­tended skin con­tact to bal­ance fruit to tan­nin and only strate­gic use of bar­rels.

Mosny hopes to ex­pand his port­fo­lio next year with the release of a Gruner Velt­liner and Rose.

Mick and Pam’s son, Joe, will re­main at Road 13 as gen­eral man­ager as will wine­maker Jeff del Nin and all other em­ploy­ees.

Road 13 makes a wide va­ri­ety of wines, but is best known for its award-win­ning Rhone-style wines, in­clud­ing Syrah, Viog­nier, GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourve­dre blend), Rous­sanne and Marsanne.

STEVE MacNAULL/The Okana­gan Week­end

Wine­maker Michal Mosny and his wife, Martina, own and op­er­ate Wine­maker’s Cut in Oliver.

STEVE MacNAULL/The Okana­gan Week­end

Flight at­ten­dant He­len shows off the made-in-Ethiopia Rift Val­ley Chardon­nay that’s served on Ethiopian Air­lines flights.

Pinot Blanc-Oranien­steiner

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