The Bottle
I’ve just returned from a week in Alsace, the famed northeastern French wine region nestled in the Vosges mountains, nice and snug against the western border of Germany.
To be sure, if you squint the area could certainly be German territory, as it has been on occasion over past centuries. Steep-pitched roofs and clay tiles adorn many dwellings and other buildings, and although French is the dominant language, it’s not uncommon to hear residents speak Alsatian (a
German dialect) in restaurants and cafés as they tuck into regional fare like choucroute, spätzle, and pork sausages.
Along with fellow Canadian and American wine writers, I was invited by Vins Alsace, the regional marketing body, on this trip centred around its big Millésimes Alsace event: a grand tasting showcase of the latest releases from more than a hundred producers. The week was balanced out by various winery visits, vineyard tours, seminars, and my awkward attempts at employing Grade 12 French from 25 years ago, to clumsy and hilarious effect. (Apologies, Madame La Rosa; you were completely correct that I’d never retain the language if I didn’t put in more effort.)
There were numerous take-aways from my journey, not the least of which was learning that the smoke alarms in airplane washrooms will indeed go off if, say, the dumb-ass guy sitting next to you decides to try to grab a sneaky puff. Apparently, they don’t (in this instance, at least) bring in law enforcement upon arrival, though the flight crew certainly get very upset and shouty about such behaviour, and it does go on one’s permanent record.
Beyond that, I tried plenty of Rieslings, Gewürztraminers, Muscats, Pinot Blancs, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noirs, the key varieties of the region, that were outright revelations. Although many of these wines are classified Grand Cru, meaning they’re top-tier wines carrying exceptional provenance, there are 51 of these designated vineyard areas throughout Alsace, making it fairly complicated to wrap one’s head around them.
On the upside, it is a wine-producing part of the world where you don’t have to get all Grand Cru spendy to be richly rewarded. Pfaff Pinot Gris 2016 ($19.99, B.C. Liquor Stores) offers a good, midweight take on the grape—managing a confident tightrope walk between mineral-laden citrus with bright acidity and rich, honeyed peaches bringing a little opulence—while Pfaff Gewürztraminer 2015 ($19.49, B.C. Liquor Stores) will bring affable litchi, rosewater, and Mandarin orange to any spicy South Asian cuisine at your table.
The family of Hugel & Fils, the globally lauded house active since 1639, has had another passing of the torch, as Jean Frédéric Hugel has now assumed the global-ambassador position carried with much renown by his father, Etienne, who died in 2016. When not touring the world promoting the family brand, the gregarious 29-year-old carries Hugel’s history with aplomb, wearing many hats in the winery, including running tastings and stomping through vineyards with guests. Catching up with him was a delight, as is his family’s Hugel Classic Muscat 2013 ($28.99, B.C. Liquor Stores). The wine, fresh with white flowers, lemon balm, green grapes, and a handful of minerals, makes one wonder why it isn’t front and centre in many other global cool-climate regions.
The kicker, for me, was catching up with Philippe Zinck, currently the head guy and winemaker of his family’s organic Domaine Zinck winery in Eguisheim. Although the Zincks have been tending vines in the region for generations, his father started the winery proper only in the mid-1960s. Zinck combines 20 years of winemaking experience (which included a stint at Leeuwin Estate in Margaret River, Australia) with a passionate mind and good instincts to make incredible wines of place and time. Rather than using scientific readings and instruments in the vineyard to determine ripeness and pinpoint harvest dates, he goes by taste, literally plucking grapes from various sunny and shady parts of his vines, combining their hand-squeezed juices, then tasting the mix.
His Portrait Series wines are the most accessibly priced, coming from silty soils and fermented in stainless steel to retain freshness and the lay of the land with ease. Domaine Zinck Riesling 2016 ($23 to $28, Everything Wine and other private liquor stores) brings waves of fresh lime, lemonade, and marmalade notes, while Domaine Zinck Pinot Gris 2016 ($20 to $25, Marquis Wine Cellars and other private liquor stores) serves up pink grapefruit, quince, fresh sage, and a lick of honey.
For those looking to step things up, going Grand Cru with him is an absolute treat. Domaine Zinck Riesling Grand Cru Goldert 2015 ($38 to $43, Everything Wine and other private liquor stores) brings hilly marl and limestone soils to your glass, with opulent stone fruit, a dollop of maple syrup, and a rub of lime leaf on the finish.
It’s summer in Vancouver. Farmers markets are carrying the bounty of local harvests, and salmon, halibut, and an abundance of fresh seafood are in season; these wines should serve us well.